Blog # 6: Coming of Age in Japan

Coming of Age in Japan

January 8th, 2018

Carolyn coming of age in black

Today we meet a funny, energetic Japanese woman guide named Keiko who I immediately like. The first tourist site she takes us to is the Imperial Palace, the primary residence of the Emperor of Japan.  Actually we are disappointed because we can’t actually see the palace which is closed to the public except for 2 days a year, New Years and the Emperor’s birthday. 

Keiko, our teacher

We learn that in May 1945, most structures of the Imperial Palace were destroyed in the US firebombing raid on Tokyo with 2000-pound bombs. Due to the large-scale destruction of the Meiji-era palace, a new main palace hall and residences were constructed on the western portion of the site in the 1960s. The area was renamed Imperial Residence in 1948, while the eastern part was renamed East Garden and became a public park in 1968.

I bond with our guide when I ask her about the Crown Prince having only a daughter and not a son. She says this means the next Emperor must go to the Crown Prince’s brother who does have a son. Unlike our prior male guide when I suggest the possibility of a female Emperor she agrees with this idea and expresses discontent about Japan’s backward ways in this regard. The current Emperor has requested to retire due to prostate surgery and while his right to retire is being questioned (as he is a god), our guide says this is scheduled to happen in 2019.

Next we go to Zojoji Buddhist Temple which is just in front of the nearby Tokyo Tower making quite a contrast between the old and new Japan. We are slightly distracted by a show of a man with a trained monkey and I am not sure how I feel about this experience, although the man seems quite loving towards his monkey. Moreover the monkey was checking out his I-pad and gave good eye contact with me. 

There is a big incense burner in front of the temple and people are rubbing themselves with the smoke which is said to have healing powers. I do this for John’s back. Off to one side of this shrine are multiple rows of small concrete baby jizo statues dressed in bibs and knitted red caps.  This is rather sad as Keiko says they were protectors of the souls of babies and children, somewhat I guess like angels. Parents come here to decorate and dedicate the statues in honor of their children who died before them. I find this quite heart wrenching.

Metropolitan Office Building Observatories

After having our bags checked prior to boarding the elevators we went up to the 45^th floor where we had panoramic views of all of Tokyo from the 202-meter high observation decks. We could not see Mt Fuji and the mountain range due to poor weather and remember that is rare to see Mount Rainier in Seattle too.  However, we could see Tokyo Skytree and Tokyo Tower and stopped here to have our coffee fix. No I haven't converted to tea yet. 

 Meiji Jingu Shrine  &  Coming of Age

This is a Shinto Shrine dedicated to Japan’s ancient and original religion and the divine souls of  Emperor Meiji (122nd Emperor and grandfather of current Emperor) and Empress Shoken. This Emperor is known for taking the initiative to introduce Western civilization to Japan and developing technology while preserving Japanese identity. This shrine like the palace was completely destroyed in World War II air raids and rebuilt in 1958.

There are crowds of people here because of the National Coming of Age holiday that is held annually on the 2^nd Monday of January to celebrate and honor all those who have reached 20 years of age over the past year. At this age they have new liberties such as being able to drink, smoke, gamble, vote and drive. I am completely distracted and fascinated by all the gorgeous girls dressed in elaborate and expensive kimonos. Most seemed to have visited a beauty salon to be dressed in their complex kimonos, have their hair done and makeup applied. I imagine many hours has gone into this primping before reaching this place where photographers are waiting to take their pictures.  I am struck by the various emotions on their faces and wonder what they are thinking about their future. Apparently these kimonos are worth up to 1,000,000 yen and many will have rented them. Most of the men are wearing formal Western clothes (black suit and tie) while a handful are wearing the traditional Hakama. 

On this day these young adults are given presentations by the mayor of the city to congratulate them and celebrations continue all day. I could have spent many hours here taking pictures as the girls seemed quite happy to be photographed. How lucky we are to be here on this particular day.

Next we walked through the beautiful forest and entered a massive wooden Torii gate. Before entering the shrine, there was a ritual cleansing station to be used by visitors to cleanse themselves spiritually before entering the shrine.  This station includes a wooden ladle water container with a long handle and our guide shows us the ritual for first washing your left hand, then your right hand and finally transferring water from your hand (not the ladle) to your mouth and then spitting it out beside the fountain. You end by bowing deeply and saying a prayer. I wonder how it is to be coming of age like one of these absolutely gorgeous women. When I was 20 I was a hippie in braids, jeans and absolutely no make up or such inclinations.

Once inside the entrance there is a spacious courtyard and visitors can join in typical Shinto activities.  We stopped at some booths to have our fortune told. Interesting that Seth and John had the same fortune while Laura and I had the same one.  For Laura and I the Empress Shoken said, “Cut if need be through thick briars, knots of brambles, tangled thorns, For the path that’s yours to follow, Must be trodden to the end.” We both agree this represents our personalities and motivations. The men don't show us their fortunes.

The main hall also had places where visitors can write their dreams and wishes and purchase tablets with pictures on them. At the Main Shrine crowds of people were lined up to throw some money and say a prayer which involved bowing twice, clapping twice, saying a prayer of thanks and bowing one final time. We all participated in this and I found it quite moving.  Spread through out the crowds were also the young girls wearing beautiful traditional Kimonos which added to the specialness of this shrine experience. I wish we had a tradition of giving thanks.

Amazing Dinner at Basara Restaurant

On this evening the search is on for sushi.  At this simple but modern restaurant we are seated in a private room and debate the difference between sashimi, sushi, miginiti, nigiri and maki?? Apparently they are out of sushi but we can get sashimi. Having internet here we check out the answer to our questions. Nigiri is a type of sushi made from thin slices of raw fish over pressed rice seasoned with vinegar, sugar and salt. Sashimi is thinly sliced raw fish or meat served without rice. Sushi does not mean raw fish! Sashimi is not Sushi!  Raw fish is not sashimi. Sashimi is not always raw fish! I think I need therapy! See if you can tell in these pictures which one is  sushi or sashimi or maki?