Blog #2: Japanese Food ~ Do you know what Soba is or why Kobe steak is special?

Blog #2: Our First Three Restaurant Experiences ~ Do you know what Soba-ya is or why Kobe steak is special?

Clearly there is a profusion of culinary options to chose from in Kyoto.  In many restaurants we see a display of plastic or wax replicas of the food in the windows, and most menus show pictures so that while we can’t read the Japanese we can point to what we think might be good, although I don't really know what it is.  

Each restaurant seems to specialize in a type of food such as sushi-ya or ramen-ya, or yakitor-ya, or noodle nirvana, or tempura or deep fried pork and more.

The first restaurant we go to is a Soba-ya, known as a fast food. It is the Japanese version of MacDonalds but not a chain. There is a picture in the menu of Hot Pot for two and we order that without really knowing what it is.  First a hot burner is put in the middle of the table and in that pot is some clear broth with clumps of dough in it. The staff indicates nonverbally that we should put some of this broth in our bowls. Then they bring a plate of toppings such as mushrooms, lettuce, raw chicken, tofu and 3 kinds of unknown spices. 

We put some of the toppings in the broth and wonder how long to cook the chicken? We avoid using the condiments because we aren’t sure how much to add or what exactly they are?

Next we wonder what utensils should we use from the many provided?  









We finish the soup and think our dinner is finished when they arrive with soba noodles that are to be cooked in more broth. Soba is thin, brown buckwheat noodles which we saw being freshly made on the first floor of this restaurant. Our next task is how to eat the noodles with our chop sticks. The noodles keep falling off and our etiquette book has said not to bite noodles off midway when on chop sticks. I am sure we are breaking all the manners rules and wish I had researched this a bit more. 



We ask for the bill and they are surprised because there are still more courses to be provided. We leave thanking them and telling them John has an appointment. I feel like a toddler who is first learning how to eat.

While John is having a massage in the hotel here is what I learned about proper Japanese etiquette. I clearly would get a failing grade on my first dinner out.

• put the chop sticks back on the “rest” after using them; don’t lay them on a nearby plate or on the table as I did

 • don't use your chop sticks to share or pass food to another person as I did

 • eat sushi in one bite ~ don't bite in half as I did

 • don’t lower your head to your food to eat; lift the soup bowl to your lips to drink
• lift your rice bowl to your mouth but use chop sticks; don’t lift other plates directly to your mouth

 • slurping hot noodles is considered polite

 • don’t double dip your chop sticks in sauces

• don’t wave, or point or play with your chopsticks or suck sauces off them

 • tipping is not expected and in some cases can be considered rude

What is Kobe steak?

For dinner the second night John has made reservations at a restaurant that specializes in Kobe steak. I confess I don’t really know what Kobe steak is. This was hard to admit since our friend Dave had brought Kobe steak to our New Year’s eve party for our meat fondue dish and everyone was excited about it. Moreover, earlier John and Seth had been talking about Kobe steak restaurants in Japan.  I was rather surprised since I associate Japan with raw fish and not meat.  How do I get these ideas about a country’s habits?  Since everyone was raving about the Kobe meat, its’ marbling, texture and flavor as if it was an aged and rare wine I was too embarrassed and uninformed to ask what the big deal was with this beef. Another marketing scam to lead the consumer to think eating this exclusive and rare meat will lead to better health and quality of life!

Okay yes I am a skeptic of these potentially life transforming experiences.  Upon further web based study I learn that Kobe comes from a town or area called Kobe in Japan where they raise a brand or Tajima strain of Japanese black cow called Wagu. It is reportedly the world’s most famous red meat and has superior marbling. They must meet rigid production standards and cows must be 100% grass or grain fed. It can cost $110 per pound and is very rare! Reading further I learn these cows are fed beer to induce their appetite and are massaged daily, sometimes with sake! Really? The massage is considered a proxy for exercise because of their limited space and perhaps as a marketing ploy. One article said these cows enjoy classical music so classical music is played during feeding times. The rationale for this is that it increases the cow’s relaxation and appetite.  Surely eating Kobe won’t be nearly as satisfying as the Japanese bidet washlet!   

Kobe Steak, fried vegetables, and tofu

We go to a restaurant called Pound Premium. Actually we almost didn’t get there because we got lost and failed to be able to communicate well enough despite our nonverbal signals and John showing the name of the place on his I-phone to people we stopped to ask for direction.  Really knowing some Japanese would be immensely useful here. However, people seem very helpful and friendly.  The restaurant we eventually find consists of a 3 sided U-shaped table with the cooking space in the middle. We are given black bibs to wear and I envisage being spattered with oil.  The chef fries your meat and vegetables right in front of you and everything seems expertly choreographed including the price.  I order ala carte the low fat Kobe and a salad while John has the full Monty 9 course meal. I love the salad which has a carrot carved as a cow on it! 

Sushi Appetizer 

A creme rule desert with a butter cookie 

John pays 3 times the price as me and in the end admits all those extras probably weren’t worth it. Nonetheless, he has no regrets about the Kobe. Perhaps this will lead to a different addiction rather than his current washlet bidet obsession that he can’t stop raving about.