Kyoto Temples and Shrines ~ City of 10,000 Shrines
January 5-6, 2018
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| Tenryi-Ji Temple |
Kyoto, a city of 1.5 million people is located in the central part
of the island. Formerly, for more than a thousand years it was the Imperial
capital until 1869 when the capital moved to Tokyo. Although Kyoto had been hit
by wars, fires and earthquakes when it was the capital, it did not experience nearly
as much destruction as Tokyo during WWII.
This was fortunate since it has 1700 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto
shrines as well as palaces. Our guide book says it is one of the best preserved
cities in Japan. On the first morning we meet our guide, Nobu who is funny and
knowledgeable although quite hard to understand. He is very collaborative and
asks us where we want to go. John has a
list of temples to see based on his research. It is a very cold day and since
it is the first day after the huge New Year’s holiday celebration the traffic
is minimal and there are very few tourists at the sites we visit.
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| Tenryi-Ji Garden |
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| Tenryi-Ji Bamboo Garden |
Tenryi-Ji Temple (Zen): This Unesco site, one of 17 in Kyoto
used to be the emperor’s palace. It has
a peaceful garden with bamboo forest, azaleas, and Japanese maples. Since it is
winter here we don’t see the garden in bloom but even with the grey skies and
slight drizzly, Seattle-like rain it is still beautiful. I am struck with one
engraving on the side of a rock that Nobu translates as saying, “tangible is
intangible”. How true this is!
Otagi Nenbutsu-Ji Temple
This temple also known as the temple of
healing was previously built by order of Emperor Shotoku. Ruined by many natural disasters, a Buddhist
statue sculptor who was a monk reconstructed this temple. It has a display of 1200 carved stone figures of Rakan, disciples of Buddha. These were
sculpted by worshippers who have supported the restoration. The statues have amusing facial content
expressions and I don’t see many angry feeling faces.
This is not
a Unesco site, or on many “must see” lists but we come here because it is one
of Nobu’s favorite places. While Nobu doesn’t impose his ideas on us we soon
realize we might like his choices better than the usual tourist hangouts. In
the end I think this was John’s favorite site ~ small, non-touristy, and off
the grid.
Ryoanji Temple
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| Nobu explains temple map |
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| Kyoyochi Pond |
This Zen training temple is also called
Dragon Resting temple because of a tree hanging over the pond that looks like a
dragon. The Kyoyochi Pond made in
late 12th century, reminds me of Monet’s pond and I imagine it would
look even more like his paintings if the water lilies were in bloom.
The famous
rectangular Rock Garden has no trees
and I count 13 rocks placed on white gravel stones. These stones are raked by
the monks every 10 days. Nobu explains
that while raking the monks in the identically same design every time this
helps them eliminate their ego which is the purpose of Zen meditation. When I
tell him I count 13 rocks he tells me I’m not perfect yet. Looking at the garden from another
perspective I count 15 rocks. Now he says I am perfect!
The wash-basin of stone
“Tsukubai” has inscribed, “I learn only
to be contended. He who learns only to be contented is spiritually rich, while
one who does not learn to be contented is spiritually poor even if materially
wealthy. Nobu explains this concept is important in Zen spirit.
Kinkaku~Rokuon-Ji Temple
or Golden Pagoda
This
Unesco site is one of the “must see” sites in our guide book and is said to be
the most popular tourist attention in Kyoto. Indeed the mobs of tourists would
attest to this. Kinkaku was originally built as a late 14th century
retirement villa for a Shogun. Later it was converted into a Zen Buddhist
temple with a shingled roof and covered
with gold foil on lacquer on the upper 2 levels. The temple is reflected in a
beautiful pond and I try to capture this mirroring despite the grey skies and
light rain. While I agree there is
scenic, harmonious beauty here the peacefulness found in some of the prior
temples is marred by the huge crowds and ostentatious gold temple. Moreover,
this temple is actually a reproduction and not authentic. I prefer the smaller
and quieter less golden places. Perhaps I am becoming more Shinto ~ that is “all materials have spirits and beauty of their own
and it is up to the crafts people to bring them out.” Shinto is the traditional religion of Japan
devoted to the worship of multiple gods.
Currently, only 4% of Japanese are members of Shinto sects, while 35%
are Buddhists, 2% are Christians and about 60% do not idenitify with an
organized religion.
After 4 hours of temples/monasteries we return in the afternoon for
a nap followed by our Kobe Beef dining experience described earlier. The next morning, we go out again for another
4 hours of temple viewing. It is still incredibly cold and I so wish I had
gloves.
Kyoto Imperial Palace
This is not a Unesco site but was the
residence of Japanese emperors until 1869 when the capital moved during the
Meiji Restoration which restored the Emperor to power and cashiered the shoguns.
No one lives in the palace now and we learn that the palace has been completely
reconstructed due to fires and wars. There are very few tourists here and the
place feels rather unreal and empty. We look at the carriage porch, waiting
rooms, Emperor’s throne, the hall for rites and rituals, the residential
palace, the state ceremonies hall and a beautiful little garden. Harder to find
harmonious spirit here.
Dai Hoon-Ji Shrine
This Buddhist shrine is 13th century and
is one of the oldest remaining shrines that hasn’t been destroyed by files or
wars. Nobu says that few tourists come here other than some Japanese people. It
is small and embedded in a community and has a more authentic feel of how these
temples worked for the people.
Daitokuji Complex
We go to a place that has 25 temples,
only four of which are open. Nobu selects two of these temples for us to see. I
think he senses we are beginning to have “temple overload”. Moreover, our hands
and feet are freezing and as we are required to take our shoes off to walk on
the cold floor I am feeling the cold seep into my legs. How many temples do we need to see? The first one we go called The Rock Garden of Daisen-In Temple
forbids picture taking. The exquisite garden was made 490 years ago by a famous Zen
abbot who intended to express the spirit of Zen through the media of only rocks
and sand. The Japanese have loved Nature profoundly and desired to live
according to Nature. Nobu explains the waves in the rock garden and how they
depict the passage of time. I am sorry not to have pictures to explain this.
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| Ryogen_in Buddhist Temple |
The second place in this complex we go to is called Ryogen-In Zen Buddhist Temple and I think this could be my favorite. (one of the rooms has a heater in it which might have increased my affection). It was constructed in 1502 and Nobu keeps pointing out “national treasures”. The rock gardens represent the universe with rock islets expressing mountains and waves. A Zen-garden of dry landscape is a sheet of moss with a stone in the middle meant to represent the core of the universe. There are also refined pictures of dragons and hermits. Another guide explains some of the Buddhist teachings that are sources of spiritual support and I find that I am moved by his compassion. Buddhism is a philosophy and wisdom I admire.
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John is clearly exhibiting temple overdose syndrome… and tells Nobu
we are ready to go back to the hotel. We
return by way of a tour of the Gion Geisha
district. I think I see many Geisha girls, however Nobu explains they are only
tourists dressed up with polyester gowns (not silk). Then he exclaims with delight and we are
lucky to we see a “real life” Geisha and a Maiko (apprentice under 21 years).
Geisha are traditional Japanese female entertainers or “women of art” who act as hostesses and perform various arts such as classical music, dance, games, and conversation, traditionally to entertain male customers, but also female customers today. Maiko are paid half the price of a full geisha and wear white make-up and an elaborate kimono. Our guide tells us that at least a year’s training is involved before debuting as a maiko or geisha. Apparently Tokyo apprentices are slightly older than Kyoto maikos who usually start at 15. Historically they often began as early as 6 years old. There are now only about 300 geishas in Kyoto. I would love to know more about these women and how they are treated.
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