Day 7: Incredible Mountains and Tree Climbing Goats

Day 7: Tuesday April 9 Skoura to Taroudant ~ Incredible Mountains and Tree Climbing Goats

Leaving at 9 am on this morning we drive 6 hours across the Anti Atlas mountain range and  Sous Valley to get to Taroudant. None of us are looking forward to the long drive and have our technology loaded with music, audible books, paper books, New York Times and scrabble games. John taking a break from Elgar’s Dream of Gerontius suggests we listen simultaneously to Hamilton Act one in preparation for when we see it in London. As I hear the repeated refrain, “I am not throwing away my shot” I am viewing the most incredible, breathtaking views I believe I have ever seen. Miles of mountain deserts (Anti Atlas) with very little greenery with views of scattered black goats, white sheep and the occasional solo Berber shepherd dressed in black tending the sheep.

I want to stop everywhere for pictures but know we have a long ride ahead and think others will be annoyed by my asking to stop. Listening to the Hamilton music, “this will not be my last shot!” the visual movie continues. After several hours we stop for a brief lunch and while I sip cappuccino and the others have fresh orange juice we see a wagon pulled  by a donkey filled with cartons of oranges that are all carried into the restaurant. We wonder how many oranges it takes to make one glass of delicious orange juice? John says orange juice here is the drink of the gods.  Steve tells us there is enough sugar in a glass of orange juice as a coca cola drink!

A few hours later we stop at a place that grows crocuses, where people painstakingly extract the 3 stigmas in the center of each crocus and cure it over heat to make saffron. Our guide buys $25 worth of saffron which he believes is an aphrodisiac and will enhance his ability to have more children. He has 2 girls and is eager to have a boy. 

I google saffron and learn that as an antioxidant it reduces depression, has cancer fighting properties and promotes memory retention.  I think I should be eating this daily. Having bought this previously in Iran and Turkey without any noticeable beneficial psychological or physical effects I am impressed by the false marketing data and how once again I am motivated to buy it.

Finally, I can’t stand it and ask Hassan if we can stop so I can take pictures of the bizarre goats that are said to climb into the prickly and thorny argan treesto eat the fruit’s pulp in the nuts.  These trees are endemic to southwest Morocco.  

Argan Trees

Apparently the goats cannot digest the nuts themselves but instead strip away the skin, devour the pulp and swallow the nut whole. After the nuts pass through the goat’s digestive system they are picked out of their excrement, gathered and ground to produce argan oil. We stop on the road and watch some goats and the others swear they see some jump down from the trees. However, I cannot see them. 

A wizened Berber shepherd with a twinkle in his eye comes up to our car to talk with us. He is 65 years old and lives with his wife and mother up in the hills. He seems content with his life although sorry he has no children. 

I learn that argan fruit is only ripe at certain times of the year, so perhaps that is why the goats are not clamoring to jump in the trees.  I do learn that some farmers tether goats in the trees to keep them there just to attract tourists and receive tips! Thankfully these real or imaginary goats are not tethered! 

We carry on to Hotel Dar Zitoune in Taroudant. This is a lovely hotel with a pool surrounded by orange and lemon trees as well as pathways lined with beautiful roses. John thinks the hotel is too touristy for his taste but our rooms are separate cabins which have an intimate feel. We have a great 4 course dinner at the hotel which includes a fish curry for three and risotto for me and a great cheese course followed by crème Brule. Not a Moroccan meal so I feel guilty but do enjoy the break from tagine. Happily, we return to our rooms predicting a good night sleep.