Wednesday, March 13, 2013

HOLY CHILD PROGRAM IN WEST BANK DOES INCREDIBLE YEARS WORK TO INSTILL HOPE Blog # 11


Holy Child Program in West Bank Does Incredible Years Work to Instill Hope
Blog # 11



Today was the day I had been really looking forward to on this trip because I had been invited to visit a school in West Bank that was using the Incredible Years Parents, Teachers and Child Programs. Diane, a truly amazing and dynamic social worker, has single handedly introduced the IY programs to the Holy Child School. I first met Diane three years ago when she came for two of my parent and teacher training workshops in Seattle. As soon as she told me what she intended to accomplish in West Bank I knew I wanted to visit her and see first hand how our programs could work in a different culture, religion and language context. While I had seen successful delivery of my programs in countries such as Norway, UK, New Zealand and Denmark where there is substantial government support, in this case the program delivery is entirely dependent on donations for annual operating costs.  The Holy Child Program is a service of the Bethlehem Holy Child Program Corporation. The beliefs and teachings of the Roman Catholic Church provide the framework within which the services are offered even though the majority of the children are Muslim. The school’s goal is to provide an alternative education for children who suffer from untreated complex mental health issues and exposure to intergenerational trauma. It provides individualized programs for each child and seeks to highlight a rich cultural heritage and partnerships with local providers. The program is certified by the Palestinian Ministry of Education.

After researching evidence-based treatment programs for children with social and emotional problems, Diane chose the Incredible Years Programs to deliver at this school. She began this effort by training the preschool and primary grade teachers of student’s ages 4-12 years the IY Classroom Management Program. She met with the teachers for 4-6 hour workshops weekly for 9 months and additionally coached them in their classrooms. While the teachers initially found many of the child management strategies and principles foreign and difficult, as they tried to use them they began to see positive changes in their students’ emotional regulation as well as their academic learning.  Because of the teachers’ openness and willingness to try new teaching methods, next Diane introduced them to the IY Child Dinosaur School program integrating aspects of the child small group treatment model and prevention model. All of Diane’s training was done with the assistance of an Arabic interpreter who was also the academic administrator. The teachers worked together as a team to incorporate all aspects of IY emotional, social and persistence coaching, praise and incentives during their academic teaching.

Incredible Years Teacher and Child Programs

Preschool Teachers
Diane and I successfully crossed the border into West Bank showing our passports. 

Primary Grade Teacher
On my first day at the school I visited all 6 classrooms that had a ratio of 5 students per teacher. Wally Problem Solver, my puppet dressed in the school uniform came with me to the classrooms to talk about his injured arm, find out what the children had learned about emotional regulation and compliment the students for their focused work activities. I noticed that all the classrooms had the IY rules pictures, show me five posters, feeling cue cards and calm down thermometers on their walls as well as small chip bags for children to earn rewards.  The posters and cue cards all had Arabic translations added to the English words. 

The children seemed well behaved, were polite and delighted to hear Wally talk in English. 

Girl explains calm down thermometer
In one classroom a girl demonstrated for me in Arabic the calm down strategies and acted out each step of going from being hot and angry to taking deep breaths and thinking happy thoughts. As she brought the arrow down on the calm down thermometer into cool blue, her facial expression changed from anger and fear to happiness.  At the end of the school day, before the children went home they participated in Dinosaur school circle time. 


The children from all the classrooms joined together for this event. They sang Dina’s feelings songs and yelled out the emotion words in both Arabic and English. They played the “pass the hat game” and when the music was stopped the child holding the hat pulled out a question that presented a problem scenario asking them to name how the character felt. They cheered each other as they came up with the answers. I noticed that all the children were actively engaged and involved in this circle time. While one teacher led the games, another teacher was enthusiastically passing out stickers for responses and the third teacher was running the Dina music CD. They ended the session by singing one of Dina’s feeling songs in English! I thought perhaps I could be hallucinating or dreaming ~ was this really happening?



Incredible Years Parent Groups


On both days at the school I attended two IY parent groups. The first group was led by three group leaders including Diane herself, Suzanne, a Palestinian and school academic administrator, and Hanni, a Swiss nurse married to a Palestinian and fluent in Arabic. 

Number One Mothers Group



On this day there were 9 foster parents (typically there are 12) and I Iearned that each of them cared for10 foster children in their homes. These women are employed by an organization called Save Our Children (SOS). They called themselves Number One Mothers Group in the Middle East and wore a crown sticker as the symbol of their group. They all wore hijabs (scarfs) and one wore a full burka and she pushed up the veil once she was in the privacy of the room. 
The group seems completely engaged in watching the video even though it was in English. Diane pauses the vignette frequently for translation and to explore the women’s ideas of how to handle this disrespectful behavior.  They practice the strategy of adding on time and warning about privilege removal and consequences and seem to love these role-play practices. They also seem to understand the difference between punishment and effective discipline and the value of a proactive approach. There is much laughter, sharing and replay of how to respond to misbehavior. Diane and Suzanne help them talk about how to stay calm, be patient and avoid attention to misbehavior and emphasize the importance of returning to the base of the parenting pyramid. I am so impressed with these parents’ understanding of the theory behind these methods especially when they began to talk about how important it was that they keep trying to build strong relationships with these children who had previously experienced trauma, abandonment and neglect.  The foster parents seem relaxed with each other and proud of their successes using the IY principles.  The 3 group leaders are collaborative, caring, enthusiastic and continually prompt the parents’ problem solving ability by testing their understanding of which parenting tools are best to use for particular situations. I learn that this group had been meeting together for 2 hours weekly for 3 years and had recently increased their meetings to twice a week!  They talk about not wanting the group to end ~ and it is clear they are clearly a support group for each other.  I can’t imagine the stress involved in caring for 10 children with special needs alone ~ this support seems more than essential.

The second day John goes with me to the school and is given a tour of Bethlehem while I met the 2nd group who call themselves the Butterflies. They consist of 5 parents who have children in the Holy Child School. 

Three of the women are Palestinian; one a Bedouin and one a woman previously from Texas who had married a Palestinian man. They have been meeting for 18 months and on this day they began by discussing their experience using the ignore parenting strategy. 
 



Four of the women tell stories of their successes and seem delighted and proud to share how they have used this parenting tool. One woman says her children are argumentative with each other and she finds this difficult to ignore. This results in a role play practice where the mother practices the ignore and distract strategy, an idea she has learned from one of the other mother’s stories of her successful ignore experience. In this practice I am her angel whispering in her ear positive self-talk while Honnie and Diane argue with each other.  Afterwards the mother says she feels confident enough to try this at home.  These parents attend regularly and rarely miss a session and are clearly supportive to each other.  They have moved through the program material faster than the first group and will likely finish in this 2nd year. One mother talks about wanting to train other day care providers in these ideas. Diane tells me that other parents in the community having heard about the parenting program have been requesting to participate. It seems there may be some potential future local group leaders who will emerge from this group ~ that is exciting in terms of future sustainability. Watching this group was an amazing experience, the parents seemed to have mastered the basic principles of behavior management and relationship building and were praising each other’s efforts. The group leaders clearly are doing incredible work.




On the 2nd day I see the dinosaur ceremony where the children who have completed their dinosaur homework get their Triceratops badges for completing the Triceratops feeling unit. They are excited to receive these awards and Dina Dinosaur and I have the special privilege of leading them in a feeling song at the end of the ceremony. Of course I wish I (or Dina) could speak Arabic. This is clearly one of the highlights of my life to see these children tell me about feeling proud, happy, excited as well as frustrated and angry at times. Afterwards the teacher and staff prepare a lunch for John and I. The salad comes from the school garden that the children help tend and we have a delicious chicken with rice, coffee and fruit desert. Yes I must be in heaven ~ not believing what I am seeing and experiencing. This school has incredible teamwork bridging the connections between home, school and community and I wish I could come back here to work with them.  Not only that but this is the story of what one charismatic person ~ that is, Diane ~ has been able to accomplish by partnering with a small group of committed professionals and parents to sew the seeds of hope for future peace.



DUBAI ~ THE WORLD'S BIGGEST EVERYTHING Blog # 15


DUBAI ~ the world's biggest everything
Blog # 15


We head back to Dubai on Emirates Air that is fast becoming our favorite airline. Even in coach, the seats are comfortable with individual movie sets and beautiful airline hostesses who serve us a full course meal of Arab mezz including baba ghannouj and hommous, mutton biryani, chocolate mouhalabieh, cheese and biscuits and chocolate.  This is surprising given it is only a 3 hour trip. We have had trips on other airlines that only provide water and nuts in 6-7 hour trips. The Dubai airport continues to impress us with its huge size, simple and clean architecture and helpful service. 

This time we take the subway/tram into Dubai that is a wonderful opportunity for us to see all the Dubai workers getting off work. Because it is rush hour I end up standing for about 30 minutes and 12 stops, as there are no seats available. I am jostled about with my still too large 22 lb suitcase, large camera, heavy backpack and purse.  The people pouring on the subway represent many diverse cultures and languages. Less than 20% of the people here are UAE citizens ~ or 70%-80% are non-nationals, otherwise known as expats. Between the ages of 15 to 65 years, 3 million are males and 1 million are females.  People have come from more than 200 nations to work and help build Dubai. Skilled workers get on average $7 dollars a day salary while nonskilled workers get $4.50 a day. Most of these come from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.  While this seems like slave labor, still those we talked to say they are happy to be in Dubai because the amount they can earn here is more than they would get at home. For example, our delightful and ever smiling hotel luggage helper said he was from Bulgaria and was so relieved to be in Dubai because things are so difficult in his country. These expats have no hope of getting citizenship, which is reserved for native born people.  Even the children of expats born in Dubai are not eligible, nor are the children of the children—forever expat.  I am surprised to learn that Dubai, unlike Muscat, did not develop and grow entirely because of oil (which is does have but not in the abundance of many gulf states) but also because of being a tax-free with a port where businesses can be developed tax free. Tourism and exports are a large part of its economy. There is also no individual income tax—(it would be heaven for many Republicans but for the high concentration of Arabs).  Dubai is part of UAE but has its own government and is ruled by the Sheik Mohammed (Dubai Inc.)and unlike Obama he has final authority over decision making in Dubai and people we talk to seem happy with what he is doing. The Sheik has 2 sons and succession plans are in the works.


The Burj Dubai – the world’s largest tower

John viewing tower from our lunch spot 

10 years ago 
It is amazing to think that 10 years ago Dubai was largely a desert and now is this truly unbelievable place with the world’s largest tower, highest restaurant, largest aquarium, largest mall, and largest fountain ~ in fact, everything here is big. I understand that Abu Dhabi is competing and currently building a tower that they plan will be higher than Dubai’s. 


2013 from top of Berg 
We stay in the Palace Hotel in a room with a balcony that looks directly at the Burj Khalifa.  John sits on the balcony mesmerized by the tower’s size and structure. He comments that Burj is another one of the wonders of the world perhaps the 8th. But I protest that Petra is the 8th wonder and he contests that the Burj tower is right up there with Petra.  Actually he is not joking and I comment that this must be a male thing about the size of things. He searches on the internet to get tickets to go up the tower and discovers they are fully booked except for 8:30 am.  We wake up early to rush over to be there at 7:45 in line for tickets that will not be sold until 8:30. I have never seen John so eager to be early or wait in line for a ticket.  We are lucky and get 2 tickets and are some of the first to go up the tower that day.  We go up in the world’s longest travel distance elevator and seem to fly up 163 floors to the viewing area in seconds.  In the Burj there are 200 floors with the service areas and 22,000 windows.  The tower is half a mile high and took 1.5 billion dollars to build in 5 years from 2004 to 2009. It was structurally and architecturally designed and planned by an international group including Canadians (re wind structure testing), Skidmore Owings and Merril from Chicago, with other firms from Hong Kong and elsewhere. It has a hotel that is 10 floors and costs $1600 a night to stay there (for starters). The tower can withstand winds up to 50 meters an hour and can sway back and forth and handle an earthquake up to 6 on the Richtor scale. It is truly a representation of what is possible when an incredible international and collaborative effort is made to accomplish an agreed upon goal (although with cheap, available labor workers who have few protections). Why can’t we do the same for world peace and poverty?

Visit to an Expat

Naeema Jiwana, Firoz Giwant and new baby Ziyana 
After our tower visit, we take a cab out to a residential area to visit a friend who came to one of my workshops 3 years ago.  At the time I met her she said casually if I ever came to Dubai that I should visit her. I don’t think she ever imagined I would take her up on her offer, which I had not forgotten. Her name is Naeema Jiwani and she is a psychologist, born in Kenya to Indian expats and educated in Canada at Queens University. (I am always attracted to Canadians anyway.) She now lives in Dubai with her Indian husband where her parents and in-laws also live as expats. 



She has been using the IY parent programs to help parents in her psychology clinic and is also teaching psychology at the American University. She invited us to come for tea and to meet her new 2 ½ month old baby girl, Ziyana, and her husband, Firoz Giwani. 

 Our cab drive to the Palm residential area gave us a glimpse of how some of the successful expats live in Dubai. These are beautiful villas many situated on the ocean with white beaches and gorgeous  gardens. I am pleased to see Naeema and we have a wonderful afternoon tea with the Indian version of pita bread and some delicious toppings. (puri and aamrus) She says this is a special day called Chandraat (meaning moonnight) that is celebrated every month when there is a full moon with prayers and special food that we are tasting. We talk about her baby experience, her work plans and life in Dubai.  Firoz tells us they plan to live there permanently and are very happy. They can easily get 3 year residency permits but will never be able to get permanent residency. Their parents are in the same situation so they are 2nd generation expats and seem to be used to this. I think about the possible draw backs of not having permanent citizenship? It took me almost 30 years before I became an American citizen and really the only added benefit was being able to vote.

The World’s Largest Mall
John doesn’t want to shop but Naeema convinces him to go to the Dubai Mall with me–because the world’s largest mall has an aquarium in the middle of it and also has an ice skating rink. The ski hill is at another mega-mall,  the Emirate Mall not this one. 


The main tank of the aquarium is 100 feet long and 25 feet high.  The glass is 2 feet thick and it holds 10 million litres of water and the aquarium has 33,000 kinds of fish.  

There are even people underwater diving in the tanks (which can be done for a price).  We walk through a tunnel of fish surrounding us and it is astounding. There are even penguins in the underwater zoo.  


After this we walk around looking (but not entering) all the amazing shops. Two cute teenage girls ask us if we want our picture taken. We decline but they give me a children’s coloring book called “My friend”. It has all sorts of social skill messages such as, “ my friend Almad advises me when I’m wrong” or “he who chooses his friend, chooses his identity.” I laugh and wonder if they know about my dinosaur program and I ask to take their picture looking at the book. 

Girls teaching social skills in the mall ~
why did they select me for training?


Afterwards they reward us with two gift packages of a t-shirt, hat and cup, all which say, “Avoid bad companions.”  Apparently they are funded by the Department of Community Security Awareness. I am delighted with their effort and messages and can’t quite  understand why we would be selected for this gift. I am sure we have helpful friends. Perhaps this is a message that I should take Dina Dinosaur and Wally Problem Solver into the malls in the US to talk with children about making friends.


World's Most Amazing Fountain


Starting at 6 pm each evening and continuing every 30 minutes until 10 pm the Dubai fountain located in front of the Burj Dubai tower sets up a lighted waterfall fountain ballet show set to Arabic, classical and world music. It is lighted by 6,600 lights, is 902 feet in length and shoots water 490 feet high. It cost 217 million dollars to build. Both nights in Dubai we eat at the same Lebanese restaurant that has a balcony looking at this waterfall show. Every half hour people get up from their tables to watch this incredible show. I videotape it on my camera with the hopes I can transport this magic home to show others. John suggests we space out the meal with courses between waterfall shows and I am surprised that he is not in a hurry to leave as is his usual custom. He is relaxed and I am content and we are both pleased with our trip and most especially the chance to appreciate Arab people and their culture. But for me it is not the huge size or the level of wealth (or its absence) that makes Oman, Jordan, Israel, West Bank and Dubai  special ~  rather it is the special connections and warmth of not only the Arab people we have met but all the other expats from around the world who have made these places what they are. We are in indeed one interconnected world.
Okay where to next? 
Love Carolyn


Return to Jordan from Israel Bog #14


Blog #14
Return to Jordan from Israel
We sort through our shackles to see if we have enough cash to pay the bus driver for our trip to the Israel/Jordan border. Additionally there will be another substantial fee (~$80) we must pay in order to leave Israel and then yet another fee (dinars) to enter Jordan again. In these countries one pays to enter and again to leave. I think about whether US, Canada and Mexico have ever considered that method of dealing with their budget problems.  I am still getting sheckels and dinars confused when I’m giving a tip or buying something and occasionally even throw in some Omani rials. I think I should bring three different purses – oops perhaps four as next we will need dirhams in Dubai.  Okay sorting the different exchange rates to figure out what it costs in American money is one thing but where did I stash our American money? At one point John pulls out an envelope from his clean pants pocket and realizes that is where he put his extra cash in case we were robbed. Similarly I have repacked my suitcase and backpack twice in search for the sheckles I meant to repay Diane with. I am sure I probably hid it in some special place when going to West Bank ~ problem is I can’t remember where? Then I realize we are almost at the end of our trip and have not been robbed. This is a significant discovery because in some of our other trips to places like Peru, Chile, Equador and yes Boston and Seattle we have been robbed. This is what led us to hide money in different places because once being robbed left us without money for 2 weeks because there was a bank strike. But I can't recall where I put the money to be used for an emergency! 

Our lovely friend Diane ~ ever the gracious hostess and mentor picks us up at the hotel and deposits us at the bus in Jerusalem that takes us to the border.  We love her support but I wonder if she is worried that we don’t know how to get to the right place to catch the bus to the Allenby Bridge crossing into Jordan. Perhaps she is right. This is not the usual way for tourists to go into Jordan, rather we are taking a small local bus holding about 20 people that most Arabs take to go from Israel into Jordan. The trunk is quite small and our driver must unpack all the luggage in order to cram in our two large suitcases.  Once again I ask myself why I bring so many clothes when I have worn less than 50% of what I brought. I really didn’t need 4 pairs of pants, 3 skirts and 4 types of shoes! Sometimes I don’t even want to open my suitcase and am happy to put on the same thing I wore the prior day and a few nights I have even slept in my jacket because I am frequently cold due  to the air conditioning. Next time I won’t bring pajamas and take only one carry on bag. We reluctantly say good-bye to Diane and I wonder if we can manage the border crossing without her coaching. She reminded us the night before that we must re-read all the border instructions on the web and John the travel planner has done so. 

We are ready to navigate all those multiple check points and scanners. This time we more confidently release our passports to the bus driver knowing we will get them back after paying our fees. We switch buses at the Israeli border to take another bus across the Allenby Bridge to the Jordan border. This bus driver targets us to sit in the front seat squeezing me between him and John. He comments, “front seat view for VIPs”.  He points out the VIP cars on the road and tells us it costs 10 times more to bring a tourist across in one of those cars. He makes jokes about VIP travel and I naively think he is being very friendly ~ that is until at the border he explains he can’t go any further to the Jordan side and he wants money for our VIP trip. Another surprise at the border is that all the Arab bus riders must pay the hefty departure fee, not just tourists. John was sure we would be the only ones required to pay and this would be fair. We navigate the Jordan entry and scanning without difficulty and drag our suitcases to the roadside that is a congested mad house of taxis and people being picked up by relatives in both fancy and cheap cars.  A woman holding a baby and her son come up to me to ask for money and I realize this is the first time I have been approached by beggars.

We wait by the side of the road enjoying all the activity and John sends another text to Jim who has offered to pick us up and take us to Amman. Jim and John have planned to go to the Royal car museum put together by King Hussein who loved both beautiful women and beautiful cars. After waiting for 45 minutes, the policeman who is checking taxis and cars as they enter the bus station offers John his white plastic chair to sit upon. John is relieved, thankful and again I am reminded of how hospitable Jordanians are ~ “welcome to Jordan”.  After awhile John notices an elderly lady standing nearby in a burka also waiting to be picked up and he gives his chair to her. This action prompts the policeman to offer John his last plastic chair. (Later when the elderly woman leaves the policeman offers me the chair ~ this reassures me that women may not get first class seating but are at least recognized in Jordan.) We have now been waiting 90 minutes and I begin to suspect something is amiss and call Diane who says Jim must be there. Sure enough he has been waiting for 2 hours about a block away and did not get our texts, probably because we were in a dead zone.  We feel dreadful that on Jim’s one day off he has had to spend so much time waiting for us plus driving us around. He is a calm, patient and gracious person and we set off for Amman taking a new route for Jim. We are happy to be back at the Four Seasons Hotel ~ and almost feel as if we have come home as people recognize us and welcome us back.  After a lovely lunch in the lobby John and Jim take off for the car museum and I crash for a nap.

Afterwards despite the fact that the hotel concierge highly recommends taking a taxi downtown due to traffic, Jim decides he wants the driving challenge of finding an authentic Jordanian restaurant. After a thrilling drive Jim, clearly not directionally challenged (as I am), takes us safely to Al Quds a local restaurant where we don’t see any tourists.  This place could be thought of as the Kentucky Fried Chicken of Jordan in terms of atmosphere but is amazing in terms of authentic food. The array of desserts as we enter is mouth watering. John orders mansaf the national Jordanian dish and Jim and I each have half a chicken that we eat with our fingers as well as rice with toasted almonds and a lovely gravy sauce.  Of course we also have tabouli and John thinks he is in heaven as this is definitely his kind of meal and restaurant. We talk with Jim about Jordan and Israel and our favorite restaurants in Seattle and really enjoy our last night together with him. 

Monday, March 11, 2013

Shopping Till We Dropped in the Old City Blog #13


Blog # 13
Shopping Till We Dropped in the Old City  
Old City Jerusalem 
So far on this trip I had only purchased some embroidered Bedouin ankle sleeves (allegedly for the bottom of my jeans) at the Bedouin women’s market ~ although I was pretty sure they would look pretty weird on me when I got home. John declined to comment on my purchase or the innovative design I envisioned. He had bought a camel basket in Nizwa (with actual droppings of camel milk still left in it) after intense bartering as well as some “best quality” dates. (He bought the basket because he jokes about my fetish for baskets so I appreciate the effort.) When John sees me interested in a shop he immediately takes off as he finds shopping with me torture, especially because I take too much time to make up my mind. I wasn’t particularly worried about my lack of purchases because Diane had promised to take me to the two stores in the Old City that had purchases “to die for” ~ well actually she said after 5 years of comparison price checking she found these two particular local stores to have the best prices, most honest Arab sellers and highest quality goods. I envision going shopping with Diane without John and or any time pressure. She was now becoming not only our travel guide and driver, border crossing coach, cultural and food advisor but also my shopping mentor and coach. To my surprise, John wanted to come as well but warned me he wouldn’t stay more than a half hour and he was only interested in seeing rugs.


First we go to a lovely pottery shop. The owner and artists are there when we arrive and we watch them hand paint the bowls, tiles and cups that were beautifully displayed in the windows. They were finely painted with scenes of Jerusalem as well as symbols of local foods we had been eating such as pomegranates, dates, grapes, olives and onions. We spend almost an hour in this store admiring their work and picking out items we could manage to transport home. Diane assures us she will send everything home for us ~ “no problem” she says and assures us she is not on commission.  


John and I take our delicate purchases back to the car trunk and proceed following our leader Diane into the bowels of the Old City past many stores with men trying to entice us to see their store. We arrive at the Well which is so packed with beautiful items that it is like being in a candy store with too many things to taste ~ I am overwhelmed. Will I look at jewelry, scarves, rugs, or artwork?

The Well ~ one of three rooms packed to the gills 

This is a Palestinian family owned store that has been in business for over 300 years and is now run by four brothers. The youngest brother 35 years old, lives above the store and said he did a masters degree at Northwestern in Chicago. Apparently he cannot get a job in Israel because he is not Jewish.  All four brothers are there on this day and as each one sees Diane they react with delight as if the Queen has arrived giving her hugs and kisses. Diane introduces us and they tell us how much they love Diane, as she is part of their family. John tells them we want to see rugs. One of the brothers tells John to relax, take his time, and take a seat. He also mentions the store has Internet.  John googles Kilim rugs on his I-phone to research the history of these rugs and reads some of the books provided on rugs. (I had once done a presentation project on Turkish Kilim rugs and have always loved their simple design and weave) Diane and I look around the store where I realize I could spend a day and still only see 20% of the items.  After an hour of soaking up the atmosphere John reminds the middle brother we want to see rugs. He throws down the first kilim rug and all three of us exclaim, “it is beautiful.” The brother replies, “don’t buy the first thing you see, you will see many more. Take your time.” He throws down another equally beautiful rug and after the third one is on the floor a rather large tour group arrives. 


Brothers, John and Diane 
The brothers offer us lunch and ask us if we can wait until they are finished with the tour group.  We say we don’t need lunch but after a half hour where the brothers have  been thoroughly engaged with the other tourists, lunch is brought to us. I truly found this to be one of the best meals I have had in Israel ~ I loved the schwarma lamb and the hummus, warm and freshly baked pita bread. They also included salad! As we eat the food they bring in more food and eventually as the other tour group left they join us for lunch. I am thinking we have been here 2 hours, bought nothing and John is still with us! We discuss many things over lunch but one interaction was particularly disturbing. After they found out John was a cardiologist one of the brothers tells us about his heart pains which feel like a heart attack. He has them 2-3 times a week but has some medication to take with helps him. (he shows John the meds) After some further probing questions on John’s part it turns out he is having panic attacks. The older brother explains he has these attacks due to an incident when his brother was aged 16 and was beat up by the Israeli police for putting up a Palestine flag. He was put in jail for 2 years and experienced torture. Since then he has had panic attacks. We tell him this is post traumatic stress syndrome and there is treatment for this.  Diane offers her services.  We have heard other stories such as these and read in the newspaper that same morning that a Palestinian man who was sent to jail for throwing a rock had died and this was causing further unrest and protests.  The atmosphere in the Old City is tense and the brothers talk about the stress they feel.  

Now three hours have passed and John reminds the brothers he would like to see some rugs.  They bring out a dozen or so more – and John measures them and we try to decide if one will be adequately big for our kitchen. We don’t seem to be able to find a small one that color matches to go in front of the door. The brothers tell us rugs don’t have to match and we can cut them down if needed.  We ask about price but are told price is not a problem – how many do we want? We will get a discount. We are feeling a bit overwhelmed by the choices and finally pick out the main rug and one other small rug which we don’t think matches but we are imagining other places we might put that rug.  John is thinking of Vashon of course. Finally we say we will take a 3rd rug – at this point I think we have been completely seduced by this family who have entranced us. The third brother then throws in a 4th small rug as a bonus (which we aren't wild about). Price.. still very uncertain but there will be a discount and we are told we have made the best long-term decision and chosen the best quality rugs.   
John has surpassed any shopping event I’ve ever had with him in 40 years ~ maybe something was put in the Turkish coffee or mint tea!  He says he is going to the hotel for a nap.  


Diane and I stay to look at scarves and I get a lesson from the youngest brother on how scarves should be worn and what my colors are. While I usually wear black, grey, white and tan – earth colors – I am told I should be wearing spring colors and the earth colors make me look dull.  Diane confirms that I should wear spring colors. I try on different colored scarves and I get further coaching in how to wear the scarves for a further hour. As we are proceeding to antique jewelry discussions I realize I have overdosed and much as I want to shop on my own with Diane ~ I am unable.  The brothers understand and one of them tells me to come back sometime to visit…not to buy .. as we are now part of the family. We head back to the car following another family member who carries the rugs.  I realize we have spent most of a day in the store with this charismatic family. And I am trying to figure out how the shackles I spent translate into dollars and realize I have been distracted and don't know how much I have spent.  It was an incredible experience that I will never forget.  I wonder if we will like what we bought when we get it home – in fact, I am not sure exactly what we have bought. I wake up suddenly in the middle of the night wondering what came over John and I.

Dead Sea and Exfoliation Blog # 12



Blog #12
Dead Sea and Exfoliation

While we are at Holy Child School in West Bank, Diane’s car has a clutch problem and won’t be fixed until the next day. We are unable to go as planned to Akko that day and once again Sister Naomi from the Catholic Church rescues us and brings us back from West Bank into Jerusalem. We decide to go to the Dead Sea the next day.  This is the lowest place on the face of the earth ~ that is 425 meters lower than sea level. Diane tells us how swimming in this sea will cure all our aches and pains and leave us feeling relaxed.  She describes how the sea’s healing qualities have helped her eczema and skin conditions in the past. Both Diane and I have been coughing with breathing problems and we wonder if the sea will solve that problem as well.  Diane advises us not to wear anything into the sea that we expect to keep because the mineral waters will destroy our bathing suits or clothing. She explains that the Dead Sea is heavy with salt ( 9 times more saline that the ocean) and oily with minerals.  Moreover, I read in my travel book that we shouldn’t shave the day before because it will be like having salt rubbed in wounds. I read further that the water contains 20 times as much bromine, 15 times more magnesium, and 10 times as much iodine as the ocean.  (33% solid substance) I think about the traditional turkey that my son Seth and I prepare each year by putting our turkey in a bath of salt. Apparently this results in us having a moist turkey because the salt absorbs the fluid. I wonder if we are about to be brined turkeys. 

Dead Sea
The trip there is beautiful with dry canyons that rise up around the cobalt-blue waters of the Dead Sea. The temperature has warmed up considerably from Jerusalem that was somewhat cold. We arrive at this lovely oasis where we entered the spa and sign up for an exfoliating rub. First we go into the sea but since we are barefoot (believe or not we are Seattleites and don’t have water proof shoes) the stones are hard on John’s feet. Diane shares her clogs with John claiming her hard soles don’t need them. Out in the sea we experience our bodies rising to the surface ~ it is hard to keep our feet down. We float with ease and the water temperature is perfect. Around us a Japanese tour group are covering themselves with black mud and are laughing with delight. We reluctantly leave the sea for our treatments but Diane and I have difficulty walking on the rough ocean floor that seems to have salty spikes sticking up and piercing our soles. Again the kindness of humans around the world helps us ~ an elderly Russian man on the beach gives his shoes to a young man from Kenya (we think) who wearing flip flops brings the shoes out to Diane and helps her put them on. 
Next we enjoy the experience of having our skin removed by a masseuse who uses a salt product. My masseuse is a Jewish woman from South Africa who worked in the United States but returned to Israel to support the growth of the Jewish population there.  She is uncertain about this decision but happy to be nearer family. She ends my massage by giving me a bonus mud face that is not part of my paid package. I think she was surprised when I told her I had never exfoliated my face or had a mud bath so gave me this as a present. Diane, John and I leave the spa feeling considerably relaxed and convinced our skin looks younger and our coughing has decreased.  I comment that John’s face looks healthier and he tells me that nothing was put on his face and has taken aspirin for his pains. 

Friday, March 8, 2013

JERUSALEM BLOG # 10




JERUSALEM ~ A CITY OF RELIGIOUS IMPORTANCE AND SO MUCH UNRESOLVED CONFLICT 
Bog # 10

I enter Jerusalem with many conflicting thoughts and a sense of embarrassment regarding how little I know about the history of a city that has such religious importance and is sacred to so many Jewish, Muslim, Palestinian and Christian people. While I am not a religious person I am curious and intrigued to know more about why there is so much unresolved conflict here and why history has not taught about the importance of compassion and tolerance? I wonder about basic things such as whether Palestinian people are Arabs and why they don’t have their own country after living here for so many generations? 



I try to understand the underlying problem between the Jewish  and Arab people and think about possible solutions that are fair, safe and lead to good feelings. This is what Wally Problem Solver (the puppet character in my Dinosaur School social skills and problem solving curriculum) would teach children to think about. I wonder about the building of a wall between the West Bank and Jerusalem, done initially for safety, but question whether it is lessening the chances of peace? I wonder why the Palestinians who have lived and worked in Jerusalem for generations are not able to get permits to work here, denied access at checkpoints, need to show identity cards, not given citizenship and discriminated against in so many ways? Why do Palestinians in West Bank only get water twice a month while Jewish people living in the settlements there have unlimited access? Why is there such unequitable distribution of resources and why does racism still exist after all that has been learned about the value of tolerance and acceptance? Although these measures that affect all Palestinians are perhaps justified for security reasons, they have more than a tinge of racism and make me thing about the 50's in United States. None of these solutions meet Wally’s criteria for effective solutions that lead to fair, safe or good feelings as outcomes. I can empathize with the Israeli fear of Palestinian suicide bombers but is it reasonable to blame all the Palestinians for a small group of terrorists?  Is building the wall and creating hardships for the Palestinians a justified way to reduce terrorist activity? I think it is more likely to do the opposite. 


Surely there are more effective ways to problem solve.  I think about sending Wally to Israel to teach the seven problem solving steps. Perhaps if we start with teaching children anger management and conflict resolution it will be different in the next generation for helping people accept and respect each other’s differences. Perhaps if we offer parenting groups including parents from different religious backgrounds we can help with reconciliation and understanding of their similarities in their hopes for their children's future.  For now it seems the possibility of forgiveness of past mistakes is not in people's emotional vocabulary or thoughts. 


School in Old City 

When we check into the American Colony Hotel we visit the bookstore to buy a book on this topic. We meet the owner of the book store, a Palestinian man named Munther M. Fahmi who was educated and worked in US for 20 years and had become an American citizen. He decided to set up a bookstore at the American Colony Hotel some years ago but was denied Israeli citizenship even though he was born and grew up here. His Israeli citizenship had lapsed. So he essentially ran the store as a tourist for a few years while he tried to regain his citizenship. He told us that in 2011 he had been given a 2-year temporary permit to run the store and this year the authorities will decide whether he will be given citizenship. He waits.  In contrast, an American citizen who has a great grandparent who is Jewish can automatically gain Israeli citizenship?  On the other hand, this man who was born here  as was his family is denied? Munther recommends we read the book entitled Holy Land, Unholy Wars and John immediately becomes engrossed with the book for the next few hours. I am still reading about the New Zealand woman who fell in love with and married a Bedouin man at Petra, Jordan and wonder what made her so accepting of cultural differences ~ or did she just find all the similarities and universal hopes and dreams of all mankind?

We hire a guide who turns out to be Christian Palestinian to give us a tour of the Old City.  He starts by asking us what church we go to and when John tells him we don’t go to church, he grunts and changes the subject. We walk the Via Dolorosa (Way of the Sorrows), the route that Jesus is believed to have taken as he carried the cross to Calvary. However, others have proposed alternative routes and places for his burial and resurrection. John asks our guide for proof of these happenings and our guide tries to transform John’s thinking and they are actively engaged in debate. We see the key historical sites such as the Chapel of the Flagellation, where Jesus is said to have been flogged and stop at other sites where Jesus is said to have fallen or faced his mother or had his face wiped and finally end at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This church is where it is said that Jesus was nailed to the cross, died and rose from the dead.  This place also has the burial site of Adam (of Adam and Eve fame). The city is crowded with hundreds if not thousands of tourists and huge numbers are waiting in line to see Jesus’s burial place. 

Every street and church has videotape cameras monitoring all activities. To my surprise this place does not feel inspirational or meditative and reflective as I expected. Rather the whole walk down the Via Dolorosa left me with a feeling of religious marketing and tension. Every building was a store or was a restaurant.



The stores were filled with crosses, Jesus statues, t-shirts, and other religious artifacts and trinkets. You could even buy a replica of the crown of thorns that Jesus wore on this trip. I wondered why this Old City was not a Heritage Site that would prohibit such marketing and left as a meditative and spiritual place something like the Grand Canyon or Yellowstone Park?  This city has many religious sites sacred to Christians, Muslims and Jews.  Although this city sets many souls of these many different religions resonating with spiritual energy, we both feel unsettled.  Has the net effect of all this religious fervor been positive?

Wailing Wall 

We reach the 2000-year-old Western retaining Wall of the Temple Mount that for Jews is the holiest of all shrines. For centuries Jews have come here to search for a connection with God and mourn the destruction of the First and Second Temples, therefore it is often called the Wailing Wall. The area in front of the wall has a section for women and another section for men. 






John must wear a kippa to enter the male section.  Here black garbed Hasidic men rock backwards and forwards in their heels, bobbing their heads in prayer and sometimes pressing themselves against the wall to kiss the stones. 




I am on the women’s side and notice wads of paper stuffed into the rock cracks and some women inserting more. I feel guilty at intruding on this place of prayer but still I take a picture. It is felt that these prayers and petitions inserted in the cracks will be answered. You can even email your prayers for insertion into the Wall. Our guide tells us that he has guided couples unable to conceive babies here to pray and afterwards he has heard from them that they have had a child. 


The minarets with speakers and programmed songs begin the noon call for prayers as we leave. Our guide tells us there has been unrest or protests at the Dome of the Rock so we don’t go there on this day. 


Our Guide instructs Carolyn 

Our tour is up and our guide takes us into a store where he tries to sell us the book he has written about the old city – a small paper book costing over $30. We politely decline and he is disappointed but calls a taxi driver for us. We get in the cab and when we notice there is no meter he tells what the price will be to take us to the hotel. We decline and get out.  We haven’t bought anything and are hungry and decide now that we are on our own we will explore and find a restaurant for some healing hummus and pita bread. Then we go back to the hotel and buy another book about religion and healing olive trees. Tomorrow I will go to West Bank with Diane to learn about the Holy Child Program and John will do a self-catering tour to the Holocaust Museum and the Dome of the Rock. I hope none of my dear readers (if there are any!) won’t find this offensive ~ I am still wrestling with conflicting thoughts.  

Love Carolyn