Day #2: Historical Tour
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| Saadia Tombs |
Unfortunately, this day is cool and rainy. We meet our guide for a historical tour beginning with the Saadian Tombs which we can see from the rooftop terrace of our hotel. This is followed by a visit to the Koutoubia Mosque. When our guide tells us how women are more respected than men I ask if there are any female Imam or if they are allowed to do the call to prayers. He seems a bit offended by this idea because he says it is the role of men is to take care of women so they don’t have to work. I keep my mouth shut.
Mellah
Next we go to a Jewish synagogue followed by a walk in the walled Jewish Quarter, called a mellah. The Jewish quarter is situated near the royal palace, and it is said the reason for this is to protect its inhabitants. The mellahs of Morocco primarily came about as Jews migrated to Morocco after being expelled from the Iberian Peninsula during the Spanish Inquisition. I wonder whether the real purpose of a mellah near the palace, was to isolate the Jews from the Muslim majority? Was it a punishment or a place of safety? Our guide is very positive about the ancient history of the Jewish people being in Morocco at the time of the Berbers. He comments on their contribution to jewelry making and their religious acceptance by Muslims. However, history indicates there used to be half a million Jews in Morocco and since the establishment of the State of Israel, in 1948, most of these have emigrated to the new Jewish state, in part due to financial payments from the Israeli government to Morocco encouraging immigration. Only about 3,000 remain and most of those have moved to modern quarters of Moroccan towns. This is something I read about later but do not learn from our guide who tells us of the tolerance of different religious groups alongside Muslims in Morocco. This is an optimistic message that I can’t disagree with even if not exactly true. I think about how to promote such a message in America.
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Koutoubia Mosque
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Tile Floor |
Next we go to a Jewish synagogue followed by a walk in the walled Jewish Quarter, called a mellah. The Jewish quarter is situated near the royal palace, and it is said the reason for this is to protect its inhabitants. The mellahs of Morocco primarily came about as Jews migrated to Morocco after being expelled from the Iberian Peninsula during the Spanish Inquisition. I wonder whether the real purpose of a mellah near the palace, was to isolate the Jews from the Muslim majority? Was it a punishment or a place of safety? Our guide is very positive about the ancient history of the Jewish people being in Morocco at the time of the Berbers. He comments on their contribution to jewelry making and their religious acceptance by Muslims. However, history indicates there used to be half a million Jews in Morocco and since the establishment of the State of Israel, in 1948, most of these have emigrated to the new Jewish state, in part due to financial payments from the Israeli government to Morocco encouraging immigration. Only about 3,000 remain and most of those have moved to modern quarters of Moroccan towns. This is something I read about later but do not learn from our guide who tells us of the tolerance of different religious groups alongside Muslims in Morocco. This is an optimistic message that I can’t disagree with even if not exactly true. I think about how to promote such a message in America.
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| Synagogue |
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| Weaver in Jewish Mellah |
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| Spices in Jewish Market |
At the end of the tour we end up at a carpet place. How typical!
We enjoy looking at the detailed rugs, carved and ornate doors, pottery and jewelry in a rather fancy store. No purchases are made.
Sharing Food and Escaping Technology
We have reservations in a market restaurant called Nomad. John and I arrive at this restaurant via tuck tuck transportation which powers its way through the tourist packed alley ways between the stalls. While we cannot order wine it has a fun atmosphere and again we order different tagine dishes of lamb, chicken or beef along side couscous and share dishes. The tagine dish is named after the earthenware pot it is cooked in and also is used as a serving dish. Towards the end of our meal the electricity goes out but luckily we just have desert left and eat that in romantic candlelight. This cozy place brings back memories of my hippie days. I briefly wish I could throw all work worries to the wind and travel again without cares, without schedules, without technology (I-phone or computer) but perhaps not without money… not sure but envious of those who can do this.
We enjoy looking at the detailed rugs, carved and ornate doors, pottery and jewelry in a rather fancy store. No purchases are made.
Sharing Food and Escaping Technology
We have reservations in a market restaurant called Nomad. John and I arrive at this restaurant via tuck tuck transportation which powers its way through the tourist packed alley ways between the stalls. While we cannot order wine it has a fun atmosphere and again we order different tagine dishes of lamb, chicken or beef along side couscous and share dishes. The tagine dish is named after the earthenware pot it is cooked in and also is used as a serving dish. Towards the end of our meal the electricity goes out but luckily we just have desert left and eat that in romantic candlelight. This cozy place brings back memories of my hippie days. I briefly wish I could throw all work worries to the wind and travel again without cares, without schedules, without technology (I-phone or computer) but perhaps not without money… not sure but envious of those who can do this.
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