Moving to the North Island to a Magical Place

Moving to the North Island and Arriving in Russell ~ a Magical Place

March 6-8

We fly to Auckland and renting a car drive 5 hours north to Russell.  We are surprised to find we have to take a car ferry across the Bay of Islands between Okiato and Opua to get to Russell! 

We are reminded of going to Vashon and glad to learn there are no 1 hour waits and that these small ferries go every 10 minutes.  The town of Russell was the first permanent European settlement and sea port in New Zealand (and first capital) and is situated in the Bay of Islands on the far north of the North Island. It has a resident population of 800 people which our Inn manager Amelia later tells us increases to 10,000 in the summer. Historically this was a community without laws and full of prostitution and became known as the “hell hole of the pacific” despite the translation of its name Kororareka being “how sweet is the penguin”.  Today Russell is a quaint tourist village of cafes, gift shops and bike or kyak rentals set on the ocean with amazing views of the islands, mountains and beaches. 

Russell Town in distance 

We are even more surprised as we search for the mysterious place called Donkey Bay Inn that John discovered on his web search the night before. We eventually find this unmarked place that is beyond magical with an amazing Gaudi–ish house and garden and spectacular views from our Skyfall suite’s toilet, bath, bedroom, living room and also the house’s breakfast and kitchen area. In fact every room in this house has incredible views.  Perhaps we are in heaven... but where are the donkeys?

Donkey Bay Inn

Deck of our room jutting out

View of Nudist Beach  

View of House from Beach 

We are lucky to have been upgraded to the largest upstairs suite due to a toilet breakdown in our assigned room. The home is owned by an Italian man named Antonio who in the past few months turned it into a B&B and he now lives in a nearby home on the property. This house is environmentally correct producing its own electricity with solar panels along with a nude beach.  

Beach for swimming at Donkey Bay Inn

After having a drink of Antonio’s own delicious wines with the lovely Inn keeper Amelia we head out for a meal on the waterfront deck of the Duke of Marlborough Hotel (dating back to 1827).  What a gem of a place we have stumbled on in a serendipity way! Touristy yes but welcoming and tastefully developed.

View from Dinner Deck of Hotel 

Marlborough Hotel

The next day we wander around Russell taking in the small, well done museum and walking to the top of Flag Staff Hill which gives us a 360 degree view of the Bay of Islands. 

The Union Jack was first flown on this hill in 1840 and then chopped down 4 times by the Maori who were upset with the British rule because they believed the terms of the treaty were not being honored. In 1858 a fifth flagstaff was erected by Kawiti’s son Maihi Parone to symbolize unity between Maori and Pakeha. The Confederation of Tribes flag is flown here 12 days a year on dates of special significance in Maori history. There is no flag up on this day.  We wander around this quaint village and hang out in our beautiful suite and swim on our inn’s nude beach. John wouldn’t let me take any pictures threatening to throw my camera in the water if I did. In the evening we chat again with Antonio and I ask about renting here for a month.  We have another wonderful dinner at a different restaurant and comment on how great it would be if Queen Anne, Seattle would offer such delicious restaurant food. Perhaps we should move here?

What bird do you think this is? Not a kiwi....

Waitangi Treating Grounds ~ New Zealand's founding document

Sadly we have to leave this magical village for Auckland the next day. We stop by the Waitangi Treaty Grounds which in November 2017 opened an award winning museum built on the very spot where New Zealand’s founding document ~ the Treaty of Waitangi was signed. Easily one could spend half a day here and we regret not having more time to see the carved meeting house, ceremonial war canoe and cultural performances. 

James Cook

Abel Tasman

Te Koukou

We really enjoy the film of the re-enactment of the signing of the Treaty. The point of view of both the British colonists and the Maori tribe chiefs seems to be presented in a balanced way.   The Treaty of Waitangi, an agreement between the chiefs of New Zealand and the Queen of England was in part meant to remedy the conflict between Maori and Europeans over land rights.  Under this treaty all purchases of land were supposed to have been through the Crown, acting as agent for the Maori. The terms required the Maori to cede the sovereignty of New Zealand to the Queen. In return she would guarantee them continued and undisputed possession of their lands. Despite the good intentions, observance of the Treaty obligations were often ignored and land disputes continued. A government act of 1865 allowing direct land purchases by Europeans from individual Maori, compounded the problems and Maori people despair at losing large territories of land led to the  Land Wars of the 1860’s and resentment that continues today. The twentieth century has seen many changes in the status of Maori land tenure and considerable areas are still controlled by tribes and subtribes. Land is extremely important to preserving Maori people’s national identity and mana. 

I am impressed with New Zealand’s efforts to assure Maori representation in Parliament and learn that five seats have been assigned to Maori. The introduction of the Mixed Member Proportional (MMP) system of government in 1996 assures Maori representation in each of the four main political parties, some of whom hold ministerial portfolios. The numbers of representation will increase as the Maori population increases. Currently approximately 18% of the population are Maori. The total population of New Zealand is just over 4.5 million. I feel very lucky to have an Incredible Years (IY) Mentor in New Zealand who is Maori and is bring my IY parenting program to this population. Other Maori group leaders have become accredited in both the parent and teacher IY programs. I am in awe of New Zealand's efforts and feel energized to see what we can do to improve cultural diversity of IY program delivery in the US.  

John and Bruce

Once in Auckland we meet up with Bruce Haulman, a Vashon friend who is a history professor from Green River Community College. For 13 years he has been bringing undergraduate students to Australia and New Zealand for a 12 week teaching quarter. He gives us a tour of Auckland and fills us in on some of its history. Over dinner on a street that reminds us of Alki in Seattle, we compare the values and government approaches in US, Australia, Canada and New Zealand.  I am ready to move to New Zealand as it was the first country to allow women to vote and to offer universal health care. Currently they seem very committed to supporting the Treaty commitments and respecting the Maori traditions.  People here seem to trust the government and to be respectful of cultural diversity and its value to their country. New Zealanders seem relaxed, peaceful and concerned about global warming and protecting the environment.  At my training workshops given earlier on this trip I recall how we started and ended each day with Maori prayers and singing which I found very moving in this tradition’s ability to connect everyone.  Bruce tells us that at the February yearly celebration of the Treaty this year, the Prime Minister and her cabinet served the Maori chiefs at dinner.  There is much for America to learn from this country and its people.

 

Lisa IY mentor teaching Carolyn the Maori welcome tradition