Back in the Saddle ~ Otago
Central Trail ~ Bike Day #1 (39 km)
Clyde to Alexandra to Omakau
to Ophir
John surprised me a month ago by
asking if I would take a bike trip with him after my New Zealand workshop. This was a surprise because about 10 years
ago I had a bad bike accident on Vashon Island resulting in 2 weeks in intensive
care, 6 months of rehab and negative forecasting about my future language and
brain recovery. The doctors said I
shouldn’t bike again for risk of hitting my head again (or drink wine) and John
declared he wouldn’t bike with me again, saying that for me to bike now would
be like continuing to smoke after lung cancer. While I have not biked much
since then (except for on our stationary bike) I have no post traumatic stress or
reluctance about biking and was happy to do this as John’s walking is limited
due to back issues. Moreover, I love to exercise and be outdoors. Just in case you are wondering, my brain and language ability currently seem to be about the same
level of craziness as prior to the injury or at least that is what others tell
me.
At the Queenstown airport we drop
our rental car and meet Nick, the dynamic and energetic owner of Luxury Rail Tours, who drives us to
Clyde, an historic and quaint town at
the start of our railway line biking trip.
Clyde was originally one of the
largest towns in New Zealand with 4000 people due to the 1862 gold rush but now
only has 1000 people. Nick will be transporting our luggage to each of the five B&Bs
we are staying at over the next 5 days of the trail ride between Clyde and
Middlemarch. The history of the train trail is that for 16 years from 1891 to
1907 laborers and engineers toiled relentlessly to build 150 kilometers of
railroad track, known as the Otago Central Railway, that became the economic
lifeline for central Otago at that time. The train linked Dunedin, then the
country’s largest city, to the goldfields bringing essential supplies to an
isolated region. Eventually gold
production declined and farming was again the region’s main industry. In 1994 a
Central Rail Trust was formed to pull up the line, redeck bridges, resurface a
trail and put in toilets and signage. In 2000 the completed trail was
officially opened bringing many tourists and opening many hotels and
restaurants and revitalizing the area. Some of the old railway stations,
buildings and houses have been maintained to preserve the rail heritage. While it took over 700,000 dollars to fix the
trail, it brings in many millions each year because of the tourism and people
like ourselves who want to be off the beaten track enjoying the beauty of this
island.
We begin by biking 8 km from Clyde to Alexandra passing orchards and
vineyards and cycling over wooden trestles. Originally Alexandra was a mining
town and since then has become a center of vineyards.
The Rail Trail is rocky and more difficult
than a smooth, paved road taking us much longer and more work than we anticipated.
Our first day we ride 39 kilometers and it takes us 5 hours. One bike rider apparently did the whole 150
km trail in 5 hours! Since I have done very little trail biking in the last 10
years my legs are noodles, my butt incredibly sore and I wonder if I will make
the entire 150 kilometer trip. Before
leaving on this trip a friend had recommended I get an e-bike but I scoffed
saying this was cheating and besides I need and like the exercise! On this first day I begin to look longingly
at those bikers who whizz by me on e-bikes with smiles on their faces. Alternatively I envy the sheep looking very relaxed.
From Alexandra we bike another 17 km to Chatto Creek where we have lunch at a
cute place right beside the Rail Trail. At this point I question if I can
actually complete the ride as my left leg and feet have lost all sense of
feeling. Moreover, ahead is the ascending Tiger Hill, the steepest part of the
trail. While it is a gentle climb of only 2%, my quads are steaming.
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| John checks out our mileage on google |
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| Midway |
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| We stop to stamp our trail passports |
Once at the top we have a marvelous downhill
ride into Omakau and then on to Ophir, a town of 25 people where we stay at a
delightful place called Pitches Store,
Ophir.
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| Ophir Village |
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| Pitches Store |
At this charming place with 6 rooms and a restaurant, plus a hot tub
we enjoy the company of the owner Colleen Hurd and other guests. This 130-year-old
historic place built originally as a general store had been completely restored
6 years earlier by Colleen and her husband as their retirement project. While
Colleen runs the place her husband is still commuting to Auckland every week
where they originally lived. Quite the retirement project! We were served scones when we arrived, one of
the best dinner meals I have ever had (lamb) with a great local Otago wine and a fabulous breakfast the next morning. Clearly they have an outstanding chef. Okay this reward at the end the first biking day
made it worth the effort!
I wonder if I could live in a town of 25 people for a retirement project?
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