Moving to the North Island to a Magical Place

Moving to the North Island and Arriving in Russell ~ a Magical Place

March 6-8

We fly to Auckland and renting a car drive 5 hours north to Russell.  We are surprised to find we have to take a car ferry across the Bay of Islands between Okiato and Opua to get to Russell! 

We are reminded of going to Vashon and glad to learn there are no 1 hour waits and that these small ferries go every 10 minutes.  The town of Russell was the first permanent European settlement and sea port in New Zealand (and first capital) and is situated in the Bay of Islands on the far north of the North Island. It has a resident population of 800 people which our Inn manager Amelia later tells us increases to 10,000 in the summer. Historically this was a community without laws and full of prostitution and became known as the “hell hole of the pacific” despite the translation of its name Kororareka being “how sweet is the penguin”.  Today Russell is a quaint tourist village of cafes, gift shops and bike or kyak rentals set on the ocean with amazing views of the islands, mountains and beaches. 

Russell Town in distance 

We are even more surprised as we search for the mysterious place called Donkey Bay Inn that John discovered on his web search the night before. We eventually find this unmarked place that is beyond magical with an amazing Gaudi–ish house and garden and spectacular views from our Skyfall suite’s toilet, bath, bedroom, living room and also the house’s breakfast and kitchen area. In fact every room in this house has incredible views.  Perhaps we are in heaven... but where are the donkeys?

Donkey Bay Inn

Deck of our room jutting out

View of Nudist Beach  

View of House from Beach 

We are lucky to have been upgraded to the largest upstairs suite due to a toilet breakdown in our assigned room. The home is owned by an Italian man named Antonio who in the past few months turned it into a B&B and he now lives in a nearby home on the property. This house is environmentally correct producing its own electricity with solar panels along with a nude beach.  

Beach for swimming at Donkey Bay Inn

After having a drink of Antonio’s own delicious wines with the lovely Inn keeper Amelia we head out for a meal on the waterfront deck of the Duke of Marlborough Hotel (dating back to 1827).  What a gem of a place we have stumbled on in a serendipity way! Touristy yes but welcoming and tastefully developed.

View from Dinner Deck of Hotel 

Marlborough Hotel

The next day we wander around Russell taking in the small, well done museum and walking to the top of Flag Staff Hill which gives us a 360 degree view of the Bay of Islands. 

The Union Jack was first flown on this hill in 1840 and then chopped down 4 times by the Maori who were upset with the British rule because they believed the terms of the treaty were not being honored. In 1858 a fifth flagstaff was erected by Kawiti’s son Maihi Parone to symbolize unity between Maori and Pakeha. The Confederation of Tribes flag is flown here 12 days a year on dates of special significance in Maori history. There is no flag up on this day.  We wander around this quaint village and hang out in our beautiful suite and swim on our inn’s nude beach. John wouldn’t let me take any pictures threatening to throw my camera in the water if I did. In the evening we chat again with Antonio and I ask about renting here for a month.  We have another wonderful dinner at a different restaurant and comment on how great it would be if Queen Anne, Seattle would offer such delicious restaurant food. Perhaps we should move here?

What bird do you think this is? Not a kiwi....

Waitangi Treating Grounds ~ New Zealand's founding document

Sadly we have to leave this magical village for Auckland the next day. We stop by the Waitangi Treaty Grounds which in November 2017 opened an award winning museum built on the very spot where New Zealand’s founding document ~ the Treaty of Waitangi was signed. Easily one could spend half a day here and we regret not having more time to see the carved meeting house, ceremonial war canoe and cultural performances. 

James Cook

Abel Tasman

Te Koukou

We really enjoy the film of the re-enactment of the signing of the Treaty. The point of view of both the British colonists and the Maori tribe chiefs seems to be presented in a balanced way.   The Treaty of Waitangi, an agreement between the chiefs of New Zealand and the Queen of England was in part meant to remedy the conflict between Maori and Europeans over land rights.  Under this treaty all purchases of land were supposed to have been through the Crown, acting as agent for the Maori. The terms required the Maori to cede the sovereignty of New Zealand to the Queen. In return she would guarantee them continued and undisputed possession of their lands. Despite the good intentions, observance of the Treaty obligations were often ignored and land disputes continued. A government act of 1865 allowing direct land purchases by Europeans from individual Maori, compounded the problems and Maori people despair at losing large territories of land led to the  Land Wars of the 1860’s and resentment that continues today. The twentieth century has seen many changes in the status of Maori land tenure and considerable areas are still controlled by tribes and subtribes. Land is extremely important to preserving Maori people’s national identity and mana. 

I am impressed with New Zealand’s efforts to assure Maori representation in Parliament and learn that five seats have been assigned to Maori. The introduction of the Mixed Member Proportional (MMP) system of government in 1996 assures Maori representation in each of the four main political parties, some of whom hold ministerial portfolios. The numbers of representation will increase as the Maori population increases. Currently approximately 18% of the population are Maori. The total population of New Zealand is just over 4.5 million. I feel very lucky to have an Incredible Years (IY) Mentor in New Zealand who is Maori and is bring my IY parenting program to this population. Other Maori group leaders have become accredited in both the parent and teacher IY programs. I am in awe of New Zealand's efforts and feel energized to see what we can do to improve cultural diversity of IY program delivery in the US.  

John and Bruce

Once in Auckland we meet up with Bruce Haulman, a Vashon friend who is a history professor from Green River Community College. For 13 years he has been bringing undergraduate students to Australia and New Zealand for a 12 week teaching quarter. He gives us a tour of Auckland and fills us in on some of its history. Over dinner on a street that reminds us of Alki in Seattle, we compare the values and government approaches in US, Australia, Canada and New Zealand.  I am ready to move to New Zealand as it was the first country to allow women to vote and to offer universal health care. Currently they seem very committed to supporting the Treaty commitments and respecting the Maori traditions.  People here seem to trust the government and to be respectful of cultural diversity and its value to their country. New Zealanders seem relaxed, peaceful and concerned about global warming and protecting the environment.  At my training workshops given earlier on this trip I recall how we started and ended each day with Maori prayers and singing which I found very moving in this tradition’s ability to connect everyone.  Bruce tells us that at the February yearly celebration of the Treaty this year, the Prime Minister and her cabinet served the Maori chiefs at dinner.  There is much for America to learn from this country and its people.

 

Lisa IY mentor teaching Carolyn the Maori welcome tradition

From Day 4 & 5 Biking Train Adventures to Strange Boulders and Wonderful Food

From Day 4 and 5 Biking Train Adventures to Strange Boulders and Wonderful Food 

Bike Day #4: Ranfurly to Hyde (32 km)

Friday March 2^nd

Back in Ranfurly we ride 7 km to the village of Waipiata (for coffee & to see the Waipiata man) and then continue on to Hyde a total of 32 km. 

Along the way John meets a rider from the Philappines. Turns out this man was familiar with the very place where John was in the Peace Corps 50 years earlier. He and his wife, both retired executives are planning on biking for 3 months in New Zealand and want to see all the places they didn’t see when traveling as executives.  After New Zealand they plan to hike in Napal and then on to USA and then South America biking. Another retirement plan, especially interesting as he said his wife only learned to bike 3 years ago.

John is white speck in distance 

We bike through the gorge following Taiera River and stop for a picnic at a place with amazing views. We proceed through another tunnel and on to Hyde. Here we are picked up by Frank and taken to Kokonga Lodge, owned by Alexis and Frank Siermans. This couple also recently retired from the north island Auckland area when their children left home for college and bought this gorgeous place to operate as a B&B.  

Konkonga Lodge 

Christ Church Friends Julie and Stuart 

Alexis and Frank operate as a team in operating this place and jokigly aruge about who does the most work.  They have not worked together before has Frank was a sales person and Alexis an HR person.  They plan to take off 3-4 months a year in low tourist season to travel. We have dinner on the deck of their place with Julie and Stewart and another retired couple from Belgium. 

Meal on Deck

Our Belgium biker was previously a butcher who made his living working 100 hours a week along with his wife of 40 years. He expounds on the value of hard work after dropping out of high school and agrees with the environmental problems of cattle ranching.  He talks about the congestion in Belgium  and difficulties in his country's survival and seems attracted to life in New Zealand. The setting of our dinner includes panoramic views  and again a warm New Zealand hospitality. Happily for John we are served salmon and for me an amazing pavolva desert with fruit. I ask for the desert recipe and vow to make it when I return.

View from Deck 

Pavlov Dessert 

Kokonga Lodge to Hyde to Middlemarch to Celebratory Lunch Kissing Gate Café (31 km)

Saturday March 3

At times seems never ending! 

For our last 31 km ride it is sunny and beautiful and we meander along stopping frequently to enjoy the views and to postpone the end of our amazing trip.  My legs seem stronger and I am definitely more confident on my bike than when I started. My left leg and foot still goes numb but stopping to walk a bit seems to help the problem.  

We arrive in Middlemarch around 1 pm and head off for a celebratory lunch at Kissing Gate Café with Julie and Stewart at a quaint garden restaurant where we are also served champagne. I am sure I have not lost weight on this trip because despite the 4-5 hours per day of exercise we have had some amazing meals.  

Julie and Stuart

Afterwards we attend a small community fair and enjoy watching the horses and a peculiar race where the men carry the women on their backs jumping over hay stacks and pools of water. 

After showering up at a local biker shower place we reluctantly turn in our bikes, rest at Cycle Surgery and are bused to Pukerangi station where we meet the Taieri Gorge daily tourist train.  
Will I ever do a bike trip again?  Hmm I might but will consider an E-bike unless my body pump training improves my legs or is it my butt that needs help? 

This 3 hour ride in a 1920’s train with comfortable seats takes us through amazing gorges, across viaducts and through a long tunnel and eventually to Dunedin, New Zealand’s first city constructed at the time of the gold rush.   What an amazing way to complete our biking adventure which has definitely taken us on a trip bringing the past history of this place into our current thinking.  Consistent with New Zealand’s incredible hospitality we are picked up at the train station by our B&B host and taken to Bard Place which is 2 miles away.

Dunedin Train Stati

 John had previously made 8 pm reservations for dinner at Plato restaurant, highly recommended by Trip Advisor and our tour book. This is a funky restaurant is an adventure in itself as the restaurant has a kooky decor of thousands of tchotchkes and while the food is fantastic I am driven to distraction by the junk everywhere. Sorry should have taken pictures so you could appreciate the junk.

Dunedin to Fleurs Place on South Island

March 4-5, 2018

Up for another typically English breakfast of eggs, bacon and great toast for John and granola for me and we meet 2 other New Zealand guests who have traveled widely and we share travel tips. At this point we have no reservations or plans of where we will go after Dunedin.  Along the way various travelers have shared their recommendations with us which include going further south to Stewart Island for birding, as well as going back to the north island to the wine area, or visiting Julie and Stewart in Christ Church. We will have 2 days at Bard B&B so have a day to think about the next adventure. 

One couple had mentioned going to Fleurs place, an internationally renowned destination-restaurant and we drawn to this idea like mice to cheese. This restaurant set in a picturesque village on the north Otago coast about 70 km from Dunedin means renting car and we manage to get 2pm lunch reservations.  The drive north is along the ocean shore and has amazing beaches that are absolutely breath taking. 

We stop to see the famous Moeraki boulders on the beach which are spectacular spherical concretions that have eroded out of mudstone slopes behind the beach and may have taken 4-5 million years to form.  

What are these Moeraki boulders? 

John says the boulders look like God pooped there while I imagine they are dinosaur eggs. The Maori Legend says they are there because colonists in canoes were wrecked there and the seeds from their food baskets grew into boulders.  In any case they are a message that we are about to arrive in a fantasy world that exceeds our expectations.

We arrive at Fleur’s fish restaurant that looks as if it has always been there and is set on a beach promontory with amazing views.  Fleur built this place from recycled fittings, furnishings and salvaged materials including an elegant wooden stair case to the 2^nd floor. It is indeed a magical place that is very special leaving us with a lasting memory.  Our meal there is incredible with its fresh fish and I even manage to have 11 rather large green lipped mussels while John has cod wrapped in bacon and scallops.

Green lipped muscles

Fleur 

Fleur Sullivan, a well known New Zealand restaurateur, dedicated to serving top-quality locally produced food bought this place in 1997 after being diagnosed with cancer. She was an advocate of the ‘slow food’ movement long before it was in vogue and was committed to food that was fresh, honest and locally produced.  I wanted to buy the autobiographical book about Fleur, now aged 72 but unfortunately they were out of it. While I was buying a different book with Fleur’s recipes in it, Fleur came over to talk with me and invited us over to her table so she could autograph the book. Her warmth was infectious and this led to a lengthy discussion with her telling great stories and meeting 2 of her friends, who were also in the hospitality and restaurant business. 

Fleur and her friend try to calm me

It was a special afternoon which ended up with these New Zealanders telling us not to despair about Trump and reassuring us that all will be better and America will recover in the future. I asked Fleur if she could come to Vashon to open such a restaurant there and she asked for my address saying she would send me her book so that I could do this. Later John asks me if Fleur is my model and I say yes, although I still have no cooking aspirations despite buying her cookbook (except for the pavlava recipe). My aspirations continue to be to cook up new delicious programs and training for supporting families and teachers. I also have noticed that Fleur like me wears black, so perhaps I don't need a color transformation as has been recommended by friends and family members.  We stop on the way home at a cheese factory and buy some different cheeses.  Really? Hungry already!  In the evening unfortunately John has some stomach ailment (mussels?) so we stay holed up in our room and I eat cheese. We postpone making a decision about where we will go next and live "in the moment".

Larnach Castle

Today we have a lazy day driving out to Atago peninsula to see the only mainline nesting place for the Northern Royal Albatross birds and also other rarely seen birds including yellow-eyed penguins and dolphins. The weather is rainy and misty so we are unable to see the nesting birds but there is a nice museum with videos about the study of the Albatross. Sorry no pictures. On the way home with ocean views we stop at Larnach Castle and gardens, which has been the life work of the Barker family to restore. Still wet so we don’t do the garden.  Afterwards John agrees to a few minutes of Marino wool sweater shopping in town followed by a lovely lamb dinner at the Bacchus Restaurant. I try not to think of the cute sheep we saw lazing about on our bike trip. John is feeling better now.  I prefer the simplicity of this restaurant to the tchotchkes-laden restaurant of the prior night. John likes the tchotchkes. What can I say we have different interests, perceptions and imaginations.