Travels: Revisiting the joy of backpacking after 30 years with my daughter

Revisiting the joy of backpacking after 30 Years with my daughter

Camp out among the grasses and gentians of glacial meadows, in craggy garden nooks full of nature's darlings. Climb the mountains and get their good tidings, Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. As age comes on, one source of enjoyment after another is closed, but nature's sources never fail. Quote from John Muir 1901

Surprise Lake First Day

10 years earlier in Chile with Anna

Last week my daughter called to ask me if I would like to take a backpacking trip with her. It was midweek, I was working and a little unsure about my physical abilities to do this. Actually I realized later it had been at least 30 years since my last back packing trip prior to Anna’s birth! My most recent actual hiking trip with Anna was in Chilean Patagonia 10 years earlier and I remembered that I struggled with the downhill hike due to knee pain. Moreover, I forgot that this hiking was without a backpack. Where had the time gone? However, it was clear to me that this was an opportunity not to be missed.

Goal

Anna decides we should go to Surprise and Glacier Lakes, aka Scenic Lakes. She has not been there before and tells me there is a 4.5-mile flattish walk along side the Surprise Creek up to Surprise Lake. The goal is to set up camp at the lake Tuesday and then on Wednesday and Thursday do day hikes to Glacier Lake and climb up the granite rocks to Trap Pass. Anna explains that for a small section of the trail we will actually be on Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Two years earlier she had done over 200 miles on PCT. How exciting to be able to tell my friends that I have hiked part of PCT ~ no thoughts did I have about the fact I would need to hike up 4900 feet to Glacier Lake with a backpack on. I was like a teenager who felt she could do anything. I boasted to Anna that I started walking earlier in the year on Saturday mornings with a group of women on Vashon and could do 6 miles in 2 hours. A little reality check was needed….

Anna, an experienced hiker packed all the food, plus a blow up boat, paddles and hammock, stove, and tent in her backpack.

Her boyfriend Zack loaned me his backpack, mattress and sleeping bag. Anna culled my clothing selection telling me I had too much stuff and definitely didn’t need my lipstick and brush. Like a noncompliant child I snuck my brush into my backpack despite her protests about the added weight. I noticed Anna brought a pair of plastic clogs for me as she believes these are essential at a campsite. We don’t arrive at the trail head until 5 pm but since it is only 4.5 miles I am not worried because I believe we only need 90 minutes to get there. Erroneously I base my calculations on my Saturday morning Vashon walking on relatively flat roads with no backpack. Anna knows better but kindly doesn’t correct me leaving me to my fantasy. As soon as we get out of the car it begins raining lightly. No problem, as we are prepared with rain jackets and extra warm clothes in our packs to change into for dry sleeping.

Tuesday

We start up a trail ensconced in old growth pine and spruce forests, giant trunks, ferns, meadows and some solid planking and stairs. The sound of rumbling falls from the cascading creek accompanies us and there is not another soul in sight. It is a magical and meditative feeling at first although dark, wet and somewhat foggy. I am using poles tentatively for the first time unsure of the right way to use them but still feeling fearless. At about 3 miles the climbing becomes steep and arduous for me as we hike 7 switchbacks ascending to 4500 feet at Surprise Lake. Anna is like a mountain goat clearly slowed by my plodding steps but is delighted to be stopping everywhere to pick salmonberries and blueberries.

About 3 hours later I begin to wonder if we will be setting up camp in the dark. Anna reassures me that we have head lamps. Actually I am questioning if I can physically make our goal camp site but refuse to stop even when Anna suggests we set up camp at another spot. I think about the Everest movie I recently saw on a plane and the climber who insisted going to the summit and died coming down! I want to hike faster but am reluctant to take the chance of slipping on the roots and wet rocks. I try to be mindful, present-focused and concentrate. Anna reminds me occasionally to look at the surrounding beauty when in reality I am just focused on small steps and putting one foot carefully in front of the other. I stop to take in the breathtaking beauty even in the rain and fog.

Persistence does pay off and we arrive at 8:45 pm before sunset.

Arriving at our camp site first night before dark

Anna changes into clogs and sets up camp magically in minutes in the rain in a lovely spot with an view of the lake which I don’t appreciate until the next day. I am thrilled we have made our goal but feel slightly light headed and dizzy. Yes, I probably didn’t drink enough water and was somewhat dehydrated.

To my amazement there is even a potty nearby with a view.

Anna makes a wonderful dinner of mac and cheese with tuna and when I turn down dark chocolate peanut butter cups for desert she worries about my dehydration. We slide into bed and I drift off to sleep not waking until 9 am. I never sleep that late!

Wednesday

Bringing water from lake for coffee ~ first morning view

Coffee is served first thing.. and it is Starbucks

Up at 9 am Anna has coffee and oatmeal made. Dried raspberries and walnuts (for protein) make this porridge delicious.

I wonder why food always tastes better in the wilderness. Anna teaches me how to brush my teeth and spit without contaminating the forrest. I definitely need more practice as she tells me to dig up the dirt where my spit landed.

We watch the foggy Surprise Lake magically appear as the sky partially clears, the sun peaks through and the mountain peaks and trees are mirrored in the lake.

Surprise Lake mirrors the surrounding steep, craggy mountain peaks that are part of Goat Rocks Wilderness. However, other than Anna I don’t see any mountain goats. We are entirely alone at this campsite creating a sense of solitude I have not felt in years. Its beauty stuns me and is truly incredible.

First morning foggy view

We lounge until 11 am and then hike up past Glacier Lake and stop at a meadow and resting spot for water, drinks and snacks of dark chocolate, dried apricots and spicy nuts. Anna is preparing me for the hike up the granite rock hillside to the top at 5600 feet where there is an amazing view of the lake below us.

Climbing this unauthorized rocky and steep trail even without a backpack is challenging for me. I think about a hiking trip I did 35 years earlier with John up the Machu Picchu trail to 14,000 feet with a back pack on. How did we do that? Anne reminds me she has a 40 year advantage on me. She coaches me to keep drinking and has prepared enough water from a nearby stream with appropriate chemicals. I tank up.

Collecting water from stream

Trail at right side

Flat part at bottom is where we had snacks

This 1000 foot climb in less than a mile is what Anna calls the beginning of a possible butt buster. Really? and yesterday wasn't?

Foggy at first as we reach the summit goal. The sun peaks out as Anna serves my favorite lunch of cheese, salami, dried broccoli in olive oil wraps. Anna doesn’t spare on the weight of cheese ~ she must have brought 2 pounds of cheese!

Mountain Lupine

View of Glacier Lake

Anna wants to go further to the next higher summit but I reluctantly stay put enjoying the view as the fog and clouds dissipate and sun surrounds us. What was it Muir wrote, Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees.

I regret not going up further with Anna but was worried about how I would get down the rock hillside and did not want to push my luck. She came back with some amazing pictures. Next time, I’ll go further.

I have no problems hiking down the rocky trail and feel that the

poles have prevented any knee problems.

Bottom of rocky trail back to camp grounds

Back at our camp site about 5 pm we put up the hammock and fill the boat with air. Anna canoes around the lake while I relax in the hammock reading my book.

Dinner that night is pasta made with real butter (probably ¼ pound) with chicken and yes dark chocolate covered peanut butter cups. No fires are allowed at this elevation but night does not come until 9 pm and we happily retreat to our tent with our books.

Thursday

Up earlier this morning to complete sunshine and decide to hang out and climb the granite rocks at the end of the lake. It is challenging hiking these large boulders and while Anna scrambles like a mountain goat she calls me the Ninja woman always dressed in black.

We enjoy the lake and wildflowers and chat about everything from Trump to family relationships, to the breathtaking nature that has been presented to us in Washington State, to other hiking trips, to our teaching work and to books we have read and recommend.

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Back at our camp I go out in the boat to discover we are enfolded 100% by craggy mountains like a cup of blue water. Anna lounges in the hammock and warmed up by the sun we swim in what is at first incredibly cold water but are warmed up as we stay longer. We have some lunch and about 3 pm decide we have to leave this glorious place. Only at this time do we see that a few other people have arrived for lunch.