Travels: Blog 8: Persepolis, Palaces, Tombs and Mosques

May 8, 2016

Blog 8: PERSEPOLIS, PALACES, TOMBS & MOSQUES

Persepolis

Situated 60 kilometers north of Shiraz is Persepolis, which translated means the “Persian City”. It is the ceremonial capital of the Achaemeinid Empire (550-330BC) and is a World Heritage Site. It includes a terrace as well as four tombs cut in the side of the mountain while the other three sides are framed by a limestone retaining wall. Andrea Godard, a French archaeologist excavated this site in the early 1930s; it is believed that it was Cyrus the Great who originally chose the site and then Darius I who built the terrace and palaces. This remote place became the capital of Iran with a residence, Treasury, and stairway known as the Persepolitan Stairway built on the western side of the Great Wall with 111 steps.

Our guide and others heading for the stairway to Persepolis

It's hot!

111 Stairs to climb first

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Huge Limestone blocks

Later I see a group of school children arriving at the site and rushing to the top.

After invading Achaemenid Persia, in 330 BC Alexander the Great captured Persepolis and looted the Treasury. It is said that he burned down Persepolis in revenge for the destruction of the Acropolis of Athens during the Second Persian invasion of Greece. The ruins of a number of buildings constructed of dark-grey marble remain on the ground as well as 15 pillars.

The facades are decorated with reliefs of kings receiving gifts.

The Gate of All Nations consisted of a grand hall and the palace (Apadana) built by Darius the Great (515 BC) had 72 columns of which only 13 remain standing. The front views of the Palace were embossed with carvings of Immortals, the Kings’ elite guards.

Carved on top of one column I see the Eagle Griffin, which is the

symbol of Iran Air, the national airline.

John is somewhat disappointed with this ancient site and compares it to Egyptian ruins and tombs which are much more intact with vibrant colors and artifacts.

I on the other hand cannot stop taking pictures. I find it magnificent.

Clearly the Iranians are attempting to reconstruct the limestone statues and marble columns.

Amin tells us that those working on this capital in 515 BC included women in administrative roles as well as construction jobs and that they were given pregnancy leave and treated well. Another historical example of how we have not necessarily improved our treatment of people in subsequent generations. As I look at the ruins I think about how current wars in Syria and Isis are destroying such historic architecture and how decades from now people will be touring similarly damaged sites and lamenting the loss. Nonetheless, for me there is something peaceful and graceful about this partially remaining ancient place and I can imagine people living here more than I could imagine families living in Reza Shah’s palace.

Tombs

At a nearby site we stop to view the Royal tombs – Image of Rostam where 3 tombs are carved in the side of a massive wall of rock.

Royal Tombs

Later I reflect on these majestic, ancient tombs towering above us in contrast to the the elaborately carved tombs in Tehran at the Golestan Palace (19^th century) and the Shiraz Tomb of Hafez (an octagonal kiosk) that is surrounded by a beautiful garden.

Tomb of Hafez, famous poet

Hafez (1326-1390) was a great Shiraz poet and mystic who wrote poems about love and thought to be better than Homer. We are told to put one finger on his tomb to generate peace and we all do this.
The next day we see the stark, simple and incredibly isolated tomb of Cyrus the Great (529 BCE), thought to be founder of the Persian Empire or father of the nation. I think the simple, natural tombs are more peaceful and thought provoking than the elaborately tiled versions. (see tomb below)

Mosques

The Pink Mosque (Nasir al-Molk) is a charming and very peaceful mosque that was made not to show off but rather to represent simplicity, clean design and simple materials. Amin tells us that Shi’its pray three times a day (versus 5 times a day for Sunnis), there is no call sound for prayer and people don’t have to go to mosques to pray. He explains that prayer is personal and they can pray any time and anywhere and don’t get into trouble if they don’t pray.

Nasir al-Molk Mosque (Pink Mosque)

Wooden bricks represent earthquake proofing

In this beautifully tiled mosque (pink colors in the tiles) built in 1876-87 there is a covered arcade and sanctuary. We take off our shoes to enter the prayer hall and immediately are struck by the peacefulness of this place with its stone spiral columns and vividly colored glass panes. We sit on oriental carpets and quietly talk.

Across the street is Nasir al-Molk’s house where there is the usual glittery mirror work on the ground floor. I find I am getting tired of mirrored walls and wonder about whether painted ceilings of smiling and seductive looking ladies is a better option? While public displays of affection are not allowed it is becoming apparent to me that within the privacy of one’s home anything goes.

We visit the mosque of Manar-e Ali Ibn Hamzeh. Zanny and I are given special chadors to wear when touring this mosque that has two minarets, an exterior dome, and courtyard rooms.

Women entering Women's Entrance

The men go in one side of the mosque while the women go in the other side. The women’s room is heavily mirrored and there are a number of people praying here. One woman seems to be crying.

Mosque Roof

Is this a selfie.. see me in mirror

Heading for Esfahan

On our 8-hour drive to Esfahan we stop at the Tomb of Cyrus the Great (550BC) that was not excavated in 1960’s. Amin gives us a history lesson utilizing map while viewing the tomb.

Before leaving this isolated but intimate site we have nescafe and cookies before continuing our journey to Esfahan. I drink some coffee making the transition to Iranian cuisine.