Blog 6: Iranian People in Tehran

Blog 6:  Iranian People in Tehran

Already our first days in Tehran have changed our perspectives about Iranian people.  All of us have had experiences walking through the museums, palaces and parks and being approached by men and women smiling at us as if we are movie stars and stopping us to ask questions.  A typical interaction might go like this, Iranian, “Where are you from?”  Answer, “From America.”  Iranian, “  Where in America? We love America. How do you like Iran?”  Answer, “We love it.”  Iranian, “Many Americans think we are terrorists.”  Answer, “ I’m sorry. We have found the people to be very friendly.”  Iranian, “Thank you. We love you.  You are a good person. Thank you for coming.”  When we ask to take their picture they smile seeming pleased to have been asked and position their children so we can get the best picture. Then they pull out their own I-phone or I-pads and ask to have pictures taken of us with their family. I wonder what they do with these pictures and what they say about us. The children are adorable and I didn't see any children with misbehavior. But I did see a cartoon on the wall expressing worry about the impact of computers on children. 

 

Birthday Dinner. On the second day of our visit Amin tells us it is wife’s 31^st birthday so we  invite her to join us for dinner.  We meet Madde, at Nayeb Restaurant, one of Tehran’s top restaurants. Madde is beautiful, gracious and dressed in an elegant long coat with lovely jewelry. Her smile is infectious.  

I see that lamb chops (shishlick) are again featured on the menu and since I didn’t die from them the night before I cannot resist. Thus my shishlick addiction begins! 

Amin seems not only to be a foodie who clearly enjoys introducing us to new Iranian foods but  he also loves to recite poetry.  He recites a love poem in Farsi by the Persian poet Ferdowsi and then writes it in my journal.

 Ferdowsi is the Iranian William Shakespeare who writes poems about Iranian history and culture and the battle between good and evil. (Amin later tells me he thinks I will enjoy reading the Iranian poet Rumi more than Ferdowsi.) 

Amin recites the poem first in Farsi and then translates it for us.  I find this very moving and wonder when I last heard a man or woman for that matter, reciting poetry. Is this a lost art? Amin surprises Madde with a wonderful chocolate cake he has brought to the restaurant that has a sparkling candle going off while we sing the American birthday song. 

Later I regret not asking him to sing the Iranian birthday song.  I think I am falling in love with our guide who is passionate and knowledgeable about his work while also being genuine. He openly lets us to know his own personal thoughts and feelings while respecting our views. Perhaps he could be a psychologist.

Home cooked dinner.  We are invited to dinner at the home of the parents of an Iranian doctor, Samira Bahrainy. Samira has analyzed some of John’s data and they have written two cardiology papers together. Her father  Hossein was a dean of the Tehran School of Urban Planning and is still teaching and working there as well as consulting with other American universities. He came to the University of Washington for his masters and PhD and subsequently taught there as well at another American University. Their two daughters were born in US; Samira works in Seattle while her sister works in New York.  Hossein and his wife Feri returned to Tehran to live but visit the US and their children regularly.  Hossein graciously picked us up at the hotel and drove us amid incredible travel traffic jams to his beautiful apartment in north Tehran.  Feri had prepared all day an amazing Iranian meal which we all enjoyed. It included Fasenjon a traditional Iranian dish made with chicken, walnuts and pomegranate  sauce. 

For desert they have a heart cake in John's honor.



  
Their generosity and welcoming attitude overwhelmed us and it was delightful to be able to ask their opinions on how Iran had changed in their lifetime.  We hope to entertain them when they come to Seattle this summer and have been invited to visit with them again on our last day in Tehran. We have accepted with great delight.