January 22-23
Sri Lanka Paradise Villa, Cruise and Buddhist Moments
After a 5-hour drive and lunch of chicken kotu rotti (fast
becoming John’s favorite meal) we arrive at Saman Villas ~ an incredible
paradise and a romantic way to end our trip. An amazing infinity pool seems to
be blending into the Indian Ocean and the dining room has a 180-degree ocean view.
Our suite is spectacular with a lovely patio looking out at Bentota beach coastline of white, fine sand.
Each day our beds have different designs with flower arrangements and palm tree decorations Additionally there are lotus flowers in vases in the sitting area and bathroom.
The outside bathroom, which is warm and free from air conditioning, has a kidney shaped tub and fountain of water dripping gently. I think we should turn off the fountain to save water but realize it is provided for gentle auditory peaceful
effects.
From our room we listen to the repetitive waves and surf pounding on the beach every 5 seconds. Our room information guide indicates a wide range of books we can borrow from the library as well as DVDs. The hotel menu includes curries cooked in coconut milk and roasted spices with accompaniments such as samba rice, dahl curry, and Marie’s favorite dish brinjal moju (egg plant). I suggest to John that it would be nice to have dinner served on our deck ~ maybe breakfast and lunch too. Marie and Steve’s suite is just above our room with a balcony of the same view.
We order two extra chairs to continue our tradition of predinner drinks and snacks before dinner. Hotel staff welcomes us by bringing fruit and wine and offering us a free massage. I think I am dreaming.
Marie and Steve swimming laps |
Our suite is spectacular with a lovely patio looking out at Bentota beach coastline of white, fine sand.
Our view |
Each day our beds have different designs with flower arrangements and palm tree decorations Additionally there are lotus flowers in vases in the sitting area and bathroom.
Marie and Steve's bed |
The outside bathroom, which is warm and free from air conditioning, has a kidney shaped tub and fountain of water dripping gently. I think we should turn off the fountain to save
From our room we listen to the repetitive waves and surf pounding on the beach every 5 seconds. Our room information guide indicates a wide range of books we can borrow from the library as well as DVDs. The hotel menu includes curries cooked in coconut milk and roasted spices with accompaniments such as samba rice, dahl curry, and Marie’s favorite dish brinjal moju (egg plant). I suggest to John that it would be nice to have dinner served on our deck ~ maybe breakfast and lunch too. Marie and Steve’s suite is just above our room with a balcony of the same view.
We order two extra chairs to continue our tradition of predinner drinks and snacks before dinner. Hotel staff welcomes us by bringing fruit and wine and offering us a free massage. I think I am dreaming.
Bentota is known for its beaches and indeed the white sand beach here is more beautiful than anything I’ve seen before. I am surprised there are so few people on the beach and I see no one swimming in the ocean. The waves and undertow look powerful and forbidding so perhaps that is why the beach is empty. We settle in with delight swimming in the amazing pool, reading and anticipating the next Sri Lanka meal but wondering if we are really in Hawaii.
January 23
Madu Granga River
Cruise ~ A Buddhist Spiritual Moment
Breakfast between us consists of fresh mango, pineapple, melon,
papaya, guava and fruit drinks, curd and treacle, hopper, Sri Lankan omelets
and chicken curry…we share and sample each other’s food at every meal now
exclaiming how good it is. Hopper seems to everyone's favorite ~ I learn that 'hopper' is the English translation of the Tamil word appa (rice cakes).
I love the fruits. None of us I seem to like woodapple juice and wonder if this is an acquired taste.
Early this morning we take a boat cruise on the Madu Granga River before it gets too hot. This 2-hour boat trip surprises us with its beauty of the roughly 64 mangrove islands and caves, and the wild life. We are told we will see many purple face monkeys in the trees but actually see only one baby purple face monkey, which is brought to us by a boy in a canoe. I think of our search for leopards in Yala Part and wonder if this boy is just trying to convince us these monkeys do exist. However, we are excited to see beautiful kingfishers on the tree banks as well as the familiar egrets and cormorants.
Hoppers and spiced curry |
I love the fruits. None of us I seem to like woodapple juice and wonder if this is an acquired taste.
Amazing mangos
Boat Cruise
|
Early this morning we take a boat cruise on the Madu Granga River before it gets too hot. This 2-hour boat trip surprises us with its beauty of the roughly 64 mangrove islands and caves, and the wild life. We are told we will see many purple face monkeys in the trees but actually see only one baby purple face monkey, which is brought to us by a boy in a canoe. I think of our search for leopards in Yala Part and wonder if this boy is just trying to convince us these monkeys do exist. However, we are excited to see beautiful kingfishers on the tree banks as well as the familiar egrets and cormorants.
Kingfisher |
Mango Cave |
Grocery store on river bank |
Growing and harvesting Cinnamon
We stop at an island and meet a 41-year-old man who says he has lived here for 27 years. He has 4 children, one of whom is selling cinnamon sticks and oil. He does a demonstration of how to get cinnamon from the tree bark as well as cinnamon oil.Drying cinnamon under roof |
Cinnamon is native to Sri Lanka and was exported to China and Egypt by Arab traders as early as 2000 BC. More than 80% of the world’s cinnamon is still grown in Sri Lanka.
We tour this man’s home, which is made of mud bricks, and I wonder how he has lived here so long or if he just does this as a show for tourists.
Man's mud brick home |
Kitchen |
Latrine |
Our biggest adventure on this trip is our visit to an island with a Buddhist monastery. It has a small but beautiful temple with a Buddha in it.
Our guide explains the colors ~ red for lips, yellow for skin, white for teeth, black for hair, and orange for uniform or clothing.
An elderly, tiny woman gives us flowers to place on the altar.
There is only one monk living in this monastery and he invites us into a room where he has a 150-year-old book make of palm tree leaves. He blesses each of us by doing a chant, attaching a small white string to our wrists and tapping us on the forehead.
This monk touches us all as he connects spiritually with each of us. Our guide suggests we were all Buddhists in our prior life because the monk told him we are different from the usual tourists.
As we leave, John says, “I have had a spiritual moment”~ I comment that he also had one at the Temple of Tooth and in Colombo and he agrees but clarifies that this one is a Buddhist moment and the others were Hindu.
After our blessing our guide climbs a palm tree to retrieve king coconuts. The monk happily prepares the coconuts for us. We drink the coconut water (thrambili) feeling refreshed in many ways despite the intense heat.
Immune Family
Restaurant
After this tour we drive into a town near Bentota (Aluthgama),
which is alive with the action of shopkeepers and children getting out of
school. We find another local restaurant
called Immune Family Restaurant, which has line-ups for food, and decide this
must be a good place; we hope that our immune
system is up to the challenge.
Brinjal (egg plant) Marie's favorite
John and Steve have fish curry, rice and dahl and a brinjal dish ~ the basic Sri Lanka meal. They are worried the food will be not be spicy enough so order pol sambol a chili and coconut dish so they can add heat to the dish.
By now we have had many curries, which include a variety of subtle spices such as turmeric, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, coconut milk and dried fish.
Marie and I share some of their food but also order fried prawns, which are plentiful. Marie as predicted also asks for brinjal.
We take half of these buttery, garlic prawns home for the evening
hors d’oevres. We think this might be
our best meal yet (although I notice we have said this before) and plan to come
back here the next day. Our afternoon back in the villa bubble with
air conditioning is relaxing and cools us down. We swim laps and exercise in
the gym to burn enough calories for the next meal.
Brinjal (egg plant) Marie's favorite
John and Steve have fish curry, rice and dahl and a brinjal dish ~ the basic Sri Lanka meal. They are worried the food will be not be spicy enough so order pol sambol a chili and coconut dish so they can add heat to the dish.
By now we have had many curries, which include a variety of subtle spices such as turmeric, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, coconut milk and dried fish.
Marie and I share some of their food but also order fried prawns, which are plentiful. Marie as predicted also asks for brinjal.
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