June 13
Sevilla Day #1
Sevilla Day #1
The Magic of Sevilla ~
sizzling and romantic
Train Ride ~
We catch a slow train to Sevilla, which is comfortable, smooth and relaxing. Passing endless rows upon rows of olive trees I wonder how they pick all these olives. In addition, there are fields of beautiful sunflowers and everything looks ordered, peaceful and beautiful. John has his earphones on and is listening to Iberian Suite on his I-pad while reading the New York Times, which he downloaded before leaving Granada. However, he discovered in Granada that he had left his I-pad charger in San Sebastian so has already researched the stores in Sevilla where he can a buy a new one. Disaster would ensue if he were without his I-pad because this amazing instrument holds our reservations for hotels, airplanes, trains, bullfights, flamenco dancing as well as tickets to cathedrals. Moreover, as I mentioned earlier this precious machine is his source of maps and news as well as music.
We catch a slow train to Sevilla, which is comfortable, smooth and relaxing. Passing endless rows upon rows of olive trees I wonder how they pick all these olives. In addition, there are fields of beautiful sunflowers and everything looks ordered, peaceful and beautiful. John has his earphones on and is listening to Iberian Suite on his I-pad while reading the New York Times, which he downloaded before leaving Granada. However, he discovered in Granada that he had left his I-pad charger in San Sebastian so has already researched the stores in Sevilla where he can a buy a new one. Disaster would ensue if he were without his I-pad because this amazing instrument holds our reservations for hotels, airplanes, trains, bullfights, flamenco dancing as well as tickets to cathedrals. Moreover, as I mentioned earlier this precious machine is his source of maps and news as well as music.
We arrive in Sevilla about 1 pm. John checking out the
temperatures on his I-phone has warned me about the heat. Indeed it is sizzling
with temperature in the 90’s and predicted to be 106 degrees the next day. Sevilla,
once the largest and wealthiest city in Spain in the 17th century is
now the 4th largest with a population of 704,000 people. I sense
quickly that Sevilla is a very magical, alive and passionate Spanish city. To
add to the incredible ambience of this city, the hotel John has picked out ~
Alfonso XIII couldn’t be more romantic as confirmed by the three wedding
parties that we will see there. It is a
mix of Moorish and Western architecture and quite unlike anything we have seen
before.
 |
| Alfonso XIII |
Cathedral and Giralda
Tower ~
On our first afternoon we visit Sevilla’s cathedral which is the third largest Gothic church in Europe and largest in Spain. Apparently when the Christians ripped down a mosque on this site in early 1400’s, they decided to build the largest cathedral in the world (premonitions of Dubai to come). This took 100 years to build! In this cathedral we see the tomb of Columbus, which apparently DNA evidence substantiates despite claims he might be in Cuba. I am struck by all the paintings titled, Immaculate Conception. While this is a 3-star highlight in Steve’s guide I am not entranced with this cathedral and think that bigger doesn’t mean better or more beautiful. Again despite its immense size, I feel claustrophobic, damp, and dark making me think of tombs.
We climb the 35 flights of ramps up the Giralda Bell Tower to have a fantastic
view of the city. This is definitely worth it.
On our first afternoon we visit Sevilla’s cathedral which is the third largest Gothic church in Europe and largest in Spain. Apparently when the Christians ripped down a mosque on this site in early 1400’s, they decided to build the largest cathedral in the world (premonitions of Dubai to come). This took 100 years to build! In this cathedral we see the tomb of Columbus, which apparently DNA evidence substantiates despite claims he might be in Cuba. I am struck by all the paintings titled, Immaculate Conception. While this is a 3-star highlight in Steve’s guide I am not entranced with this cathedral and think that bigger doesn’t mean better or more beautiful. Again despite its immense size, I feel claustrophobic, damp, and dark making me think of tombs.
 |
| Bell Tower in Cathedral |
Flamenco ~
After an afternoon siesta at the hotel during the hottest part of the day we head for a 9 pm flamenco concert. John has thought to prebook this concert and I wonder if he was a travel guide in another life. He has chosen one of what Rick Steve’s would call a serious flamenco concert at the La Casa del Flamenco set in a courtyard in the Barrio Santa Cruz district. Interestingly there are 3 men, a guitarist, a singer, and a dancer in addition to one-woman flamingo dancer. The music is dark, sad and dramatic and indeed there is plenty of “soul” regarding lost love. The female dancer is graceful and rhythmic while the male dancer is faster with what is called “machine-gun” footwork and shuffling step. He is tall with long, greasy hair mostly obscuring his eyes. and a bit sexy but not my type. The guitarist is amazing with lightning-speed fingers and strums. I can’t imagine how he can remember all these intricate rhythms. The singer has intense vocalization with sounds that echoes Muslim calls to prayer and is very sad. He also produces amazing sounds with his hand clapping. The dancing is intensely soulful and serious and looks as if the dancers are in a tempest over lost love.
After an afternoon siesta at the hotel during the hottest part of the day we head for a 9 pm flamenco concert. John has thought to prebook this concert and I wonder if he was a travel guide in another life. He has chosen one of what Rick Steve’s would call a serious flamenco concert at the La Casa del Flamenco set in a courtyard in the Barrio Santa Cruz district. Interestingly there are 3 men, a guitarist, a singer, and a dancer in addition to one-woman flamingo dancer. The music is dark, sad and dramatic and indeed there is plenty of “soul” regarding lost love. The female dancer is graceful and rhythmic while the male dancer is faster with what is called “machine-gun” footwork and shuffling step. He is tall with long, greasy hair mostly obscuring his eyes. and a bit sexy but not my type. The guitarist is amazing with lightning-speed fingers and strums. I can’t imagine how he can remember all these intricate rhythms. The singer has intense vocalization with sounds that echoes Muslim calls to prayer and is very sad. He also produces amazing sounds with his hand clapping. The dancing is intensely soulful and serious and looks as if the dancers are in a tempest over lost love.
Tapas and Soccer ~
We decide to have tapas at the Hotel bar so we can catch the end of the World Cup Soccer game. Needless to say Spain was in a dour mood as Holland beat them 5 to 1. We enjoyed some delicious tapas ~ croquettes, shrimp ceviche, and Russian salad. Oops forgot to mention we had tapas for lunch too (Ozario Restaurant) ~ spinach and chic pea stew, salad, shrimp and nut ice cream. I find I like tapas because they are small sized and allow you to try different tastes.
We decide to have tapas at the Hotel bar so we can catch the end of the World Cup Soccer game. Needless to say Spain was in a dour mood as Holland beat them 5 to 1. We enjoyed some delicious tapas ~ croquettes, shrimp ceviche, and Russian salad. Oops forgot to mention we had tapas for lunch too (Ozario Restaurant) ~ spinach and chic pea stew, salad, shrimp and nut ice cream. I find I like tapas because they are small sized and allow you to try different tastes.
What a packed day ~ head to bed at midnight replete with the
day’s emotional events.
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