Sunday, March 1, 2020

Days 3,4, & 5 The Challenges and Joys of Cycling

Days #3, 4 & 5 The Challenges and Joys of Cycling

Day #3 Wednesday, Twizel to Lake Ohau (38 km)
At what age does one stop cycling? 


We eat breakfast at Poppies and get the day’s lunches.  We cycle along the edge of stunning turquoise colored canals on actual paved roads which apparently were built to promote salmon farming (almost all NZ salmon are farmed).  




Fish Farm on Canal


The empty roads are almost a welcome biking relief and a breeze compared to the rocky pathways on the previous days, although not as intimate a connection with the environment. Our ride eventually continues off the highway along the southern edge of Lake Ohau which is absolutely beautiful.

Lake Ohau 


Eventually we end up at a B&B in Killin called The Barn. The owners are 4thgeneration kiwis and have 3 cats and 2 sheep as pets. For dinner we cycle 6.5 km to Lake Ohau Lodge. Here we meet up again with the other two Australian/US couples for a meal at a long table that also includes some New Zealand folks. While John and I don’t particularly like large organized bike tours we do enjoy meeting others who bike and learning about their experiences. To our amazement we find out that the couple from Australia, Graham and Helen are ages 81 and 78. They are definitely a model for the benefits of exercise, living life to its fullest and delightful to talk with. We hope to be doing the same thing at their age.  


After dinner biking back to The Barn is somewhat precarious for me as it is dark and my bike front light is not working. I make it but don’t recommend this level of adventure.  Back at the Barn we join the owner and two other women guests for tea and discussions of life in New Zealand and the results of the Academy Awards. I realize that I have not followed the news for 2 weeks. A welcome break. 

The Barn 

Day #4 Thursday Lake Ohau to Omarama (55 km)
Grueling rocking trails

Ride Over the Saddle
Start of Uphill Cycle

This is our most grueling day as it involves a steady climb up out of Ohau to the highpoint of the A20 trail at 900m above sea level. While the trail zigzags and is not terribly steep it is very rocky and difficult to ride. John tries to motivate me by offering licorice breaks! 


licorice break



Rocky Trail 

We meet our four friends again on this trail and I am motivated by their attitude towards the trail. I endure.. only stopping to take in the incredible views because if I do this viewing while biking I seem to lose my balance. It is 11 km to the top and we all celebrate our success.  



John warns me that I might like the uphill ride better than the downhill ride. Yes, downhill on rocks is more difficult and on occasion I walk my bike with the hope I will live to 81! 

Views as we climb up

Along the way we stop for lunch with our friends at the Historic Benmore Station Woolshed



At this point it is 2 pm and I realize we have another 20 km to go. However, the remainder of our bike ride is fast with easy roadways. We reluctantly say goodbye to our friends and feel meeting them has been a gift to our experience. We are picked up and driven to Kurow rather than cycling this stretch because the trail is primarily on highway roads with cars. John says he is more nervous with me on roads than on the rocky pathway.  

Waitaki Dam 
We arrive at a sweet small hotel (8 rooms) called Waitaki Braids in Kurow.  We have an exceptional dinner there in a beautiful dining room. John wants to take a walk around  the town which takes about 5 minutes as it is even smaller than Twizel. Recorded population is 312 people. Apparently the town was originally built as the base for the nearby Waitaki Dam which formed Lake Waitaki in the first of a series of hydroelectric projects.  It was the terminus of a railway which closed in 1983. When driving there Vaughn asks us if we know Richie McCaw, the famous All Black captain of the NZ rugby team who comes from Kurow.  Sadly, as I am sure you know I am not up on my rugby knowledge, or football of any type for that matter.

Waitaki Braids in Kurow

Day #5 Friday Kurow to Duntroon  (28 km)
Does one cycle rain or shine? What level of challenge is important to cycling enjoyment?

On this morning we have a great meal at Waitaki Braids and because rain seems imminent we decide to wait it out, especially as cappuccinos are readily available and we have access to the internet. Moreover, our ride on this day is the shortest of all.  About 11 am the rain subsides and the sun comes out. We ride through a lovely landscape with 90% of the time riding in the Pasquale Vineyards, along the Waitaki River and by cow pastures and rolling hills rather than by or on the highway. This seems to make a big difference to the feeling of peacefulness. I am glad John omitted the highway journey of the day before. 



Cow country now 

We stop at the beautiful T-Rivers winery where Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris is planted and of course we sample the wine.

 





Further along we lunch by the river and later arrive at our quaint batch called Kowhai Beach in the sheep farming town of Duntroon. It has a population of 120 people!  It is known for its fossils of extinct species and 2 species of small penguins. Five kilometers south reportedly are large rock-formations called “Elephant Rocks” used in the first Chronicles of Narnia movie in 2005.  Like Kurow this village was served by a railway but eventually lost its status as a terminus and closed in 1983. The railway station is now a boutique store for fly fishermen. A key has been left for us and our batch is up high on a hill with great views overlooking the rolling landscape and fields of cows. 

Kowhai Beach Batch in Duntroon Population 120

The owner Kit comes by with our dinner and breakfast and gives us instructions on how to cook the chicken. No instructions about dish washing are given here.  John rides down to the local bar and buys a bottle of the T-Rivers Pinot Gris. We are all set for an afternoon of naps, reading, blogging and nighttime views of the stars from our bed. Hopefully we will be rested for the next day which is twice as long a cycle and forecasted to have heavy rains. Stay tuned... 

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