Russian Food, Museums and Hospitality (Part 4: September 20)

September 20

Russian Food, Museums and Hospitality

Tolstoy 

This morning we take a taxi back to the Hermitage for more incredible art. Our driver speaks some English so we ask him how the economy has affected St Petersburg.  He says that since the U.S. and European sanctions resulting from Ukraine and Crimean issues there has been a downturn in tourism. He explains that the Japanese cancelled a number of big ships coming even though they were prepaid. However, he tells us there are more Chinese coming but not many Americans. We ask him about Obama and he replies, “he’s a nobody.”  I comment that he doesn’t seem very positive about Americans and he replies that it is not the Americans rather it is the American policy and the problems the government has caused in Iraq and Iran. He goes on to say that those countries are not ready for democracy. When we ask him how the Russians feel about democracy he says the people don’t want it and are still mentally ready to still be under a strong rule like Czars.  He says “people like Putin” but goes on to add “this is not my feeling”. 

The Hermitage 

At the Hermitage we see more art … and this time it is the Old Masters such as two small Leonardo da Vinci Madonnas. These are landmarks in composition because they portray the emotion of  a mother and child having an intimate moment with touching hands and gazes rather than seated formally on a throne. 

 We enter a long hallway decorated with colorful paintings . Apparently this is a  virtually identical replica of Raphael’s Vatican Loggia in Rome commissioned by Catherine the Great after she visited. (later called Raphael’s Bible because it mixes Christian and pagan).

We go on to see one of Rembrandt’s last paintings called Prodigal Son which is powerfully emotionally resonating depicting a father’s forgiveness for his son’s transgressions. I am moved by this painting and know it is impossible to capture on my camera. 

  I realize I am overdosed and not able to take in much more. John is still going strong and I tell him later that night over dinner that I feel very plebian and uncultured. 

Second DOM dinner

John has made reservations for us to go back to the DOM for he felt our meal there was the best we have had in Russia. When we arrive they ask to take my coat and when I refuse because I am cold they insist saying they can bring me a blanket if I am cold.  There seems to be some important rule in Russia that one must not have a coat at dinner or even have it put on the back of a chair.  This time John starts his meal with pickled herring (but no vodka) followed by pelini with turkey and then a mushroom pastry. What next? Why stroganoff for John of course.. and for me peach arugula salad (same as last time) and mushroom risotto.  All this with wine and coffee in an elegant dining room for just $75 including service charge!

A Different Taxi Experience

We ask the restaurant to call a taxi for us but now have become nonchalant about taxis. For the first time in 6 days we don’t ask for the price ahead of time. When we arrive at Alexander Home we are told the price will be 700 rubles.  This is twice what we have paid other taxis into town which is a longer drive. Our prices have ranged from 300 to 450 rubles. John says we won’t pay that amount and our hotel manager comes up to tell the driver this is not right.  Okay so we have learned the stories about tourists being scammed by taxi drivers is correct.  In this case we are supported by the lovely young Russian hotel manager.

 Russian Museum

Mikhailovsky Palace 

Up early this morning we set off for the Russian Museum ~ surely we must see some Russian art. I love this museum located in the Mikhailovsky Palace because it is smaller, less ornate which is distracting, uncrowded and it is socially acceptable that I don’t know the artists. Much of the work is about Russians exploring their culture and political history. I particularly love a painting by Illya Repin called Barge Haulers on the Volga (1870-73). In this picture the labor of the workers pulling a ship against the current and their painful facial expressions reflects the struggle of the working class. We also see one painting of Tolstoy also by Repin.

Repin

Barge Haulers on the Volga (Repin)

Tolstoy 

Russian Hospitality

It is 11:30 am and we need to get back to the hotel in order to catch our taxi to the airport. But we must buy something more with our remaining rubles.  John negotiates some nesting dolls.  Getting a taxi turns out to be more difficult than we realized and we are worried about our time.  John tries unsuccessfully to hail some cabs. A young Russian woman seeing our distress asks if she can help us. When we tell her we are trying to get a taxi she gives us the number of a legal and safe taxi company. When John tells her he doesn’t have a working cell phone she is astonished and asks us how we intended to get a cab. John shows her how he would put out his arm to hail a taxi and she is further astonished and says that we would be charged 5 times more because we are tourists.  She proceeds to go in the street and somehow get a car to stop ~ the car has no sign on it that indicates it is a taxi but just looks like an ordinary car.  She asks us where we are going and I tell her we are used to paying 300-450 rubles to get back.  She shakes her head saying, “no more than 200 rubles”.  At this stage I am thinking this is another kind of scam and I ask her if she is sure this is safe. She replies, “trust me” and consider this “Russian hospitality”.  We get in this unmarked car and John shows the driver who speaks no English his I-pad with the address.  The driver takes on a rather circuitous route to our hotel finally using John’s I-pad. When we get there the driver seems quite content with his 200 rubles.  Once again we have experienced friendly Russian hospitality. A nice end to a fascinating trip.