On this morning we take the train to Lauterbrunnen, pack up our back packs from the co-op with a fresh baguette, wine and beer. We walk to a waterfall and hike to the top. I accidentally lean over the railing dropping our fresh baguette into the falls! Well at least it wasn't my camera or the wine! Since our lunches are important cultural events for us, we trudge back to the co-op to buy more bread. (see if you can find the wine in picture below?)
We hike across a beautiful valley to the 2ndTrummelbach falls that is entirely inside a mountain. There are 10 stages to this falls inside the mountain and it produces 22,000 liters of water per second. Since this is another incredibly hot day going inside this mountain is like going under a cold shower and cools us off. How lovely! The water comes from 19 glaciers and is the only falls inside a mountain in the world that is accessible to people.
Leaving here we continue hiking through a beautiful valley surrounded 360 degrees with mountains. I love it because there is no elevation and while it is hot we are not at a high elevation so I am not compelled to grunt. We sit by the glacier stream to cool off and enjoy another lunch masterpiece.
Glacier Stream |
Beautiful Valley
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Meringues and Dinosaurs for Courage for Dessert |
We hike to another cable car, passing more cows and listening to bell symphonies. I wonder if I could use this soundtrack at night to help me get back to sleep in Seattle because it does have a meditative effect. To my surprise at the side of the valley field is a quaint Swiss home with a vending machine offering fresh mountain cheese and wine! The Swiss seem to have everything covered for the essentials of hiking.
Taking a bus and 2 cable cars back up the mountain we arrive in Murren a mountain village at 5,374 feet which cannot be reached by public road. It has a population of 450 people and was the principal location for the James Bond movie On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. We reach the Alpenruh hotel where we will stay for 2 nights; however, we find our luggage has not arrived. We believe the efficient Swiss will find us so we set out to explore this quaint town and find a place for a cappuccino and beer.
It begins to rain .. our first rain of the trip. Back later at the hotel our luggage has arrived and the hotel manager leaves us a gift of a bottle of wine. Naturally our dinner is preceded by wine and cheese on our room balcony that has a view to die for. Perhaps I will stay here forever.
Anna on our hotel room balcony |
View from our room deck right side |
View from hotel room left side |
The next day it is nice to relax and not have to check out of our hotel with bags ready to go by 8:30. Nor do we have any gondolas, cable cars, ski lifts, buses or train deadlines. We lounge with coffee in bed and have another amazing breakfast.
We have some more strenuous climbing up to the Mountain View trail but since it is cloudy, not so hot and part of the way is through forests, I notice I am grunting less and nibbling blueberries. Nonetheless the cows seem to go up faster than me and seem frustrated with my slowness. Reaching the ridge we have beautiful mountain views of Eiger, Moncho, and Jungfrau peaks, and the glaciers.
Some of the cows here actually seem to follow us on the trails. The forests here remind us of Washington State.
We find a bench with an amazing view for a lunch. At this point our lunches have progressed to including wine and beer!
We are back at our hotel by 3 pm and it begins to rain again. Perfect timing. We have hiked 7.3 miles, 4-5 hours , 1995 elevation gain, average 39 minutes a mile and 22, 320 steps. It feels cozy in our room and we toast each other with Prosecco on the deck and talk to John via Skype.
We have some more strenuous climbing up to the Mountain View trail but since it is cloudy, not so hot and part of the way is through forests, I notice I am grunting less and nibbling blueberries. Nonetheless the cows seem to go up faster than me and seem frustrated with my slowness. Reaching the ridge we have beautiful mountain views of Eiger, Moncho, and Jungfrau peaks, and the glaciers.
Some of the cows here actually seem to follow us on the trails. The forests here remind us of Washington State.
We find a bench with an amazing view for a lunch. At this point our lunches have progressed to including wine and beer!
We are back at our hotel by 3 pm and it begins to rain again. Perfect timing. We have hiked 7.3 miles, 4-5 hours , 1995 elevation gain, average 39 minutes a mile and 22, 320 steps. It feels cozy in our room and we toast each other with Prosecco on the deck and talk to John via Skype.
Our dinner out this night includes crepes made of spinage and cheese followed by a sugar crepe. Why do I talk about food so much? Food seems to taste so much better after hiking? We watch a you-tube on people trying to save the melting glaciers by covering them with plastic sheets.
I am sure I couldn’t have done this trip without Anna’s expert guiding skills. She had downloaded Swiss maps and is incredibly conversant with reading these detailed maps of where trails go, the level of ascension, the possible cut off routes and where and when we might catch a bus or train or cable car. I am so impressed with her organization and confidence and how she researches possible hikes. She typically presents me with 3 options and the pros and cons in terms of level of altitude ascension vs. views vs. time line and number of miles. I know I slow down her pace but she is patient with my slower progress. I have trouble making these choice decisions at times as I want her to be satisfied and don’t want to let her down. I also find my brain thinks I can do more than my body is capable of. She pushes me to make up my mind and I often vacillate with indecision. I have an epiphany towards the end of the trip that it probably doesn’t make any difference what choice I make, that every hike is an amazing adventure and beautiful in a unique way, especially because I have Anna's company. She also is a model for me and provides consultation in how to use the I-phone to google trips involving postal buses, trains, gondolas, cable cars and finding hotels and to make Instagram stories without making me feel completely inept. I wonder how I used to travel with ease without I-phones! On this last hiking day I realize I am no longer taking my hair brush in my backpack and comfortable wearing my 5-days old dirty shorts. Next time I won't take so much stuff!
"The hills are alive with the sound of music..." |
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