Day #11 Part 2: Tanning Pits of Fez ~ really pigeon droppings, sweat and stench?

Tanning Pits of Fez ~ really pigeon droppings, sweat and stench? 

We arrive at the Chauora Tannery and are offered a sprig of mint as we enter. We walk up 3 flights to a terrace overlooking the tannery pits. As I can’t smell I ask if the smell is as bad as I recall when we were here 46 years ago when the stench of rotting flesh made me nauseous. This time I don’t need the mint to detract from the smell as I no longer can smell. This tannery was originally built in the 11^thcentury and has continued to produce leather in the same traditional way ever since.  However the tannery has been remodeled in the past 5 years so we are not able get as close to the pits as I believe we did years ago.This tannery dyes the hides of cows, sheep and camels.

The workers, some young and some old, some in skimpy shorts, bare legs and feet and others in rain pants and big boots, are standing in the vats with dye above their knees as they wash the skins like washing machines.  It looks like back breaking work. Many of them are sweating due to working in the sun. I am not sure of the temperature of the vats. 

Cutting the skin hair off the hides

White liquids.. pigeon feces, quicklime, salt and water 

The skins are first soaked in vats with white liquids for 2-3 days that contain various mixtures of cow urine, pigeon feces,quicklime, salt, and water in order to clean and soften the tough skins. They are then put into the dyeing vats of many colors which use natural dyes such as  poppy, for red, indigo for blue, and henna for orange. The leather is pulled out of the pits, trimmed and laid out to dry on the rooftops. I wonder about the effect of this dye on the men’s skin. 

 

Skins laid out to dry

Our tannery guide/salesman leads us into showrooms and somewhat aggressively encourages us to  buy leather jackets, slippers, and suitcases which are stacked high to the ceiling. Leather options include camel, sheep, cow or goat. Marie tries on a blue leather coat but we both realize we are past the stage of wanting a leather coat. Last time we were here John bought a custom made red leather coat and wore it for many years. He does not want to replace it. Besides I can’t imagine wearing leather in rainy Seattle when you have the option of warm, down jackets! I leave wondering about these workers; many seem quite young. Will they do this for their lifetime? What is their salary? What happens to their skin with the dye and intense sun? Do they use sun screen? What is it about pigeon droppings that is good for leather and for the environment? Does it soften skin as well as hides? 

Leather for sale 

About 2:30 we are exhausted from all the sensory input and want to dump our guide who has told us too many times that he needs to protect us from all the dishonest vendors who will take advantage of us. Clearly he has been taking us into stores where he undoubtedly gets a commission and I am sure we have disappointed him as we buy nothing. But despite our efforts to end our relationship with him, he insists he must return us to the hotel. So we stop for lunch to reboot our energy and of course order chicken tagine. Have I ordered anything else on this trip?  It is still tasty with its olives and oil. After lunch we take a taxi back to the hotel and discharge our guide. John returns to the room for a nap while the rest of us enter the market untethered. It feels good to stop where we want to look at things and I don’t feel very hassled, at least not like in India. I don’t buy anything so maybe I need the pressure to buy?

We have another lovely pre-dinner drink on the hotel rooftop. The vision of Fez with all its satellite dishes is in contrast to our prior visit years ago. Nonetheless it is still an amazing view with the dense city surrounded by low Atlas hills covered in olive and orange trees. We chat about food and how we will turn into tagine cooks on Vashon and then do research on what restaurant to go to. In the end we decide on Ouliya’s restaurant since we know her cooking is excellent and the tiled-room is beautiful; we love the story behind this restaurant remodel from something like a cave to transformation as a gorgeous tiled and intimate room with hand carved chairs.  We take 2 taxis to a closer entrance to their restaurant and the plan is to be met by one of the restaurant staff so we don’t get lost in the labyrinth. The process of competing for a taxi in itself is an adventure.  Despite being there first, people charge in front of us grabbing taxis. Finally we need to ask a hotel staff member to help us get one.  Our cab driver already has a passenger but takes us as well after confirming we will pay 20 dirhams.  He drops the other passenger off at one place and picks up another. I wonder if he understands where to take us?  Arriving at the chosen spot we can’t find our friends and I worry they are lost somewhere and know they don’t have a phone to call us. Eventually we call the restaurant and the delightful, handsome college student who picked us up the first day arrives. I impulsively hug him as my rescuer but I am not sure if this is culturally appropriate as he seems a bit surprised.  Arriving at the restaurant we find Marie and Steve waiting for us. They had an adventure walking after giving up on us with the aid of a friendly boy who knew where the restaurant was. We have another great meal and yes it was chicken tagine, my second of the day!  

Later our taxi ride home was interesting with the taxi driver and his girlfriend or wife having a heated fight.  I actually was worried this distraction would result in a traffic accident because the heavily made up girlfriend with false eyelashes and long, piercing nails was so angry and loud.  Certainly not a submissive Arabic female. I wonder about male and female relationships in this country. Clearly men do all the selling in the market and does this mean they have all the control?