In 1885 Canadian Pacific Railway Connects British
Columbia with the Rest of Canada
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| Canadian Pacific Train |
Day 1: Rocky Mountaineer Train Ride from Vancouver to
Kamloops, British Columbia (185 miles)
Arriving at the Rocky Mountaineer (RM) train station in
Vancouver, British Columbia we are met by welcoming hosts and the sounds of bag
pipes played by a man clad in the traditional Scottish kilt. Our train has 9
locomotives, 28 passenger coaches, 21 power and supply cars and over 500
passengers.
We find our comfortable train seats in a double-deck dome coach with windows expanding up to the train roof and the clouds. We hope the weather will improve.
There is also a small open-air viewing platform for fresh air ~ unfortunately no place to exercise so my fit bit goal for my daily 15,000 steps will be significantly hampered.
Our train trip retraces the historic pathway built through the Rocky Mountains for the Canadian Pacific Railway famous for achieving the dream of connecting British Columbia to the rest of the Canadian Confederation in 1885. It took 10 years to build over 418 miles of track! When this was completed the government of Canada was only 18 years old! (while the Civil War in US was completed 20 years earlier)
Imagine the hypnotic sound of click clack, click clack and the squealing and squeaking of train wheels rolling against the steel railroad tracks as the
background music for the amazing visual movie and stunning scenery I am about to share with you. Ahead lie glacier-fed lakes, spiral tunnels, amazing bridges, rainbow painted rocky
walls, canyons and wildlife animals. I feel tingles of excitement to be once again in Canada, my emotional home!
Leaving Vancouver, the train slowly passes by freight cars, and curves over a low long steel bridge across the broad Fraser river covered by a higher bridge which carries the “Sky train” metro.
The Fraser River is the home to the most salmon of any river in North America and it has all 5 types of salmon found in the Northwest. We pass Fraser Valley, a wide, flat valley with agricultural farms, green houses, grape vines and other berries.
I continue to be impressed with the friendliness of Canadians and of course, point this out to John. We reach Hell’s Gate which is the narrowest and fastest-flowing point of the Fraser River. I wonder if one could survive rafting these intimidating rapids and think about the early settlers and gold rush miners at the turn of the century who dared to seek out new lives in the imposing Rocky Mountains. Simon Fraser, 19th century explorer wrote in his diary in 1808, “we had to pass where no human being should venture.” As it happens I am reading Dancing at the Rascal Fair by Ivan Doig which is the perfect book to read on this journey as it is about two young Scottish men in 1889 who cross the Atlantic to homestead in Montana.
Leaving Vancouver, the train slowly passes by freight cars, and curves over a low long steel bridge across the broad Fraser river covered by a higher bridge which carries the “Sky train” metro.
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| Left side of train viewing platform |
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| Fraser River on right side of viewing platform of Fraser River |
The Fraser River is the home to the most salmon of any river in North America and it has all 5 types of salmon found in the Northwest. We pass Fraser Valley, a wide, flat valley with agricultural farms, green houses, grape vines and other berries.
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| Waving at train |
In Harrison Lake we see a food stand
where the ‘pie ladies’ dressed in traditional homestead clothing wave at us. Our host tells us they greet every train that goes by.
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| Lady waving |
I continue to be impressed with the friendliness of Canadians and of course, point this out to John. We reach Hell’s Gate which is the narrowest and fastest-flowing point of the Fraser River. I wonder if one could survive rafting these intimidating rapids and think about the early settlers and gold rush miners at the turn of the century who dared to seek out new lives in the imposing Rocky Mountains. Simon Fraser, 19th century explorer wrote in his diary in 1808, “we had to pass where no human being should venture.” As it happens I am reading Dancing at the Rascal Fair by Ivan Doig which is the perfect book to read on this journey as it is about two young Scottish men in 1889 who cross the Atlantic to homestead in Montana.
Crisco Crossing where Canadian Pacific and Canadian National Cross Over
At Crisco or commonly called “Crisco Crossing” the Canadian National (CN) railway line crosses on a distinctive arched orange-painted girder bridge. The Canadian Pacific (CP) track swaps with CN tracks in the opposite direction on a black steel bridge. Our host tells us that the CP engineers who were the first to build this line in 1885 carved their line track down whatever the easier side of the canyon was. Later the CN engineers who built their line in 1917 (so CP wouldn’t have a monopoly) had to make do with the opposite trickier side. Our train is traveling leisurely at the very edge of the Fraser river under a sheer cliff wall. The scenery changes from rocky hill with pine trees to dry and sandy. The Fraser River eventually joins forces with the Thompson River River onto ‘First Nations’ territory, passing a small wooden church and reaches Rainbow Canyon known because of the painted look of the cliff walls.
This coloring in the mountains occurs because the copper turns the rocks green and purple when oxidized while the iron paints them orange and red and the sulphur adds yellow. This is a photographer’s (or artist’s ) paradise. I greatly regret leaving my good camera with zoom lenses behind because of its weight but commit to doing my best with my I-pad and I-phone.
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| Gerwyn from the Philipines captures the beauty |
At Crisco or commonly called “Crisco Crossing” the Canadian National (CN) railway line crosses on a distinctive arched orange-painted girder bridge. The Canadian Pacific (CP) track swaps with CN tracks in the opposite direction on a black steel bridge. Our host tells us that the CP engineers who were the first to build this line in 1885 carved their line track down whatever the easier side of the canyon was. Later the CN engineers who built their line in 1917 (so CP wouldn’t have a monopoly) had to make do with the opposite trickier side. Our train is traveling leisurely at the very edge of the Fraser river under a sheer cliff wall. The scenery changes from rocky hill with pine trees to dry and sandy. The Fraser River eventually joins forces with the Thompson River River onto ‘First Nations’ territory, passing a small wooden church and reaches Rainbow Canyon known because of the painted look of the cliff walls.
This coloring in the mountains occurs because the copper turns the rocks green and purple when oxidized while the iron paints them orange and red and the sulphur adds yellow. This is a photographer’s (or artist’s ) paradise. I greatly regret leaving my good camera with zoom lenses behind because of its weight but commit to doing my best with my I-pad and I-phone.
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| Rainbow colors |
Jaws of Death
Next we pass the ‘Jaws of Death Gorge’ where the Thompson River becomes steep, narrow and turbulent. Groups of rafters pass pass by looking excited and nervous. I imagine how cold the glacier fed water would be at this time of year if they fell in. Still I wish I was on board with them.
Osprey and eagles fly overhead. Passing along the shore of Kamloops Lake we see more painted rock hills and are greeted by a pair of eagles perched together on a post. So sorry I cannot get a picture of this but taking pictures with an I-pad while a train is moving is difficult. We arrive at the town of Kamloops, the First Nations word meaning “meeting of waters” where the North and South Thompson waters meet. During the entire journey we pass five rivers and they are all heaving with rushing water due to the heavy snow falls this winter and late melt.
Next we pass the ‘Jaws of Death Gorge’ where the Thompson River becomes steep, narrow and turbulent. Groups of rafters pass pass by looking excited and nervous. I imagine how cold the glacier fed water would be at this time of year if they fell in. Still I wish I was on board with them.
Osprey and eagles fly overhead. Passing along the shore of Kamloops Lake we see more painted rock hills and are greeted by a pair of eagles perched together on a post. So sorry I cannot get a picture of this but taking pictures with an I-pad while a train is moving is difficult. We arrive at the town of Kamloops, the First Nations word meaning “meeting of waters” where the North and South Thompson waters meet. During the entire journey we pass five rivers and they are all heaving with rushing water due to the heavy snow falls this winter and late melt.
It has taken us over 12 hours to get to Kamloops a population
of approximately 8600 people for our overnight stop. The train had to stop
several times to wait while freight trains got priority because of places in
the tracks that could only handle one train at a time. During this time, I am
entranced by the views and we are fed continuously with coffee, wine or other alcohol as well as delicious snacks plus breakfast, lunch and
dinner.
Each meal we are seated with different travelers from California,
Oregon and Florida. Surprisingly we don’t talk much politics but rather people reflect
on their prior travel adventures, their families and future life plans.
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| Hoodoo Hills |
Trump News and John's Moans Intrude into the Tranquility of the Incredible Views
I stopped reading the New York Times after reading about the London terrorist attack. The train does not have internet so that limits my ability to check in with the latest disasters. Of course John had downloaded the NY Times and Walls Street Journal before leaving the station! He is obsessed with news on his I-pad and continues to despair making low moaning noises. I am annoyed that he is so addicted to Trump news that I suggest he should try to be "in the moment" and look out the window, or talk to the people seated next to him who seem eager to communicate. However, he remains in "his political zone" although tells me it is good I am not reading the news. Nonetheless, despite my efforts not to think about what Trump is doing now, I can’t help but reflect on how his withdrawal of the Paris climate agreement yesterday is all wrong. Trump is also attempting to also reduce protections of US National Parks. Has Trump ever camped in a National Park or even seen this natural beauty outside of his golden and fake palace? How do we work to protect this beautiful environment from global warming and for this incredible gift to be available for future generations?
In Kamloops we seek out a small micro-brewery called Red
Collar. It is packed with young people drinking craft beer and enjoying playing games. They seem unaware of Trumpism. We reflect on all the beauty we have seen while reconnecting with the latest internet news on our I-pads and try not to feel so helpless. I wonder what the global future will be for our children? I long to return to live in Canada which is still in the Paris Accord and people still believe in science.
So wonderful to hear from you, Carolyn--and, of course, to hear your unique voice. We are starting to feel our excitement build for our trip to the Canadian Rockies. I think we democrats all wish we could feel (again) about our country as you feel about Canada. Love to you both.
ReplyDeleteWow haven't see these comments before.. guess I just write the blog, post and don't check again. Thanks so much.. you are going to love your holiday there. Wish I could go back and hike more. xx Carolyn
DeleteYour photos are wonderful, and your text makes me feel that I am traveling with you! It is a beautiful trip, one that I would love to do again. Happy Anniversary to you both! (from Joan Yospin, groaning in Boston)
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to seeing you in Seattle. Perhaps groaning together will be more supportive. xx
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