Moscow ~ Magical and Delicious (Part 2 Feb 15-16)

Moscow ~ Magical and Delicious

Clock Tower of Kremlin in Red Square

Outside standing in the Red Square, the heart of the city, we see the magnificence of the cathedrals, the ancient clock tower of the Kremlin (reminding me of Big Ben in London) and the Disneyland fairy–tale magic of St. Basil’s Cathedral and its gilded domes ~ but this is actually real! 

Historical Museum

Orthodox Church and GUM department store 

From the time of Ivan the Great this square has been a huge gathering place for public events, markets, religious processions, festivals, political revolutions  and public executions. I learn that it is called Red Square because the Russian word krasny means red and beautiful. It is bounded by the Kremlin walls, St Basil’s cathedral, the Lenin Mausoleum, the Historical museum and the GUM department.

St. Basil’s Cathedral

St Basil's Cathedral 

Red Square’s most eye-catching structure is St. Basil’s Cathedral. It was built by Ivan IV (the Terrible) from 1555 to 1561 to commemorate the annexation to Russia of the Mongol states of Kazan and Astrakhan. The holy prophet Basil opposed the cruelties of Ivan the Terrible and took on the name of St Basil after Ivan’s death. It has onion domes over 9 chapels, each dedicated to a saint on whose feast day the Russian army won a victory.

We did not go in the Kremlin but walked around the walls, which are half a mile long, 62 feet high and 21 feet thick with 20 towers and gates. Over 10 churches and palaces lie inside.  The Moscow Kremlin is the oldest historical and architectural feature of Moscow. We hope to enter this place tomorrow, but decide due to our jet lag to take a hop on / hop off bus tour around the city. 







It is a lovely tour of the Moskva, the KGB building (still occupied by current Intelligence Services) and the Bolshoi theatre which we have learned is sold out several months in advance of the shows.  We are falling asleep on the bus so return to our hotel for a nap before our dinner.  What cuisine do we seek?  Why, Russian of course.  We have learned from the newspaper that day that because of the Kremlin’s embargo on Western food imports and an economic downtown many of the restaurants are offering more Russian cuisine.  Surprisingly, apparently 80% of ingredients used by Russian restaurants were imported.  As a result cooks are buying more local ingredients and changing their menus accordingly. We are excited to try out Russian and Georgian cuisine.

Dinner at Café Pushkin

“Moskva how violently the name plucks at any Russian heart!” (Pushkin’s description of his first trip to Moscow)

Leaving at 7 pm for what should be an 8-minute taxi ride but became a 30-minute ride we are immediately stuck in a traffic jam reminding us of Seattle but worse. It is said to have the worst traffic in the world.  However, one difference from Seattle is that these cars are very expensive Mercedes and BMWs. Some government buildings have rows of the costliest models parked in front.  We arrive at this amazing restaurant and are directed to the elegant upstairs library, which has centuries old leather bookshelves, parquet floors, high ceilings, and chandeliers. There is a pianist and harpist providing wonderful music.  The place seems refined while at the same time not pretentious and quite relaxed with families with children and business people enjoying good conversation in many languages. Other floor levels in this restaurant are decorated as a pharmacy and attic. I would definitely return to this restaurant. about the same price as the Pink Door in Seattle.

Choosing from classic Russian cuisine we start with some amazing dumplings filled separately with fish or mushrooms or pickles.  Sharing a delicious crab salad prepared with papaya follows this. Next our main meal is beef stroganoff and I am reminded I once made stroganoff regularly. It is creamy with sour cream not on John’s diet and served with fried potatoes and a pickle salad. I am unable to finish my serving as it is very rich but John does this for me.  I think I will start making this again when on our return to Seattle.  The menu has different kinds of caviar and I learn that Russia is the largest producer of caviar in the world, processing over 1,000 tons per year. I wonder since we have so much salmon in Seattle why we rarely see this on our menus. In Russia it is considered a health food. My guidebook tells me that Czar Nicholas II made his children eat caviar with black bread every morning.  I wonder if that is standard parenting practice today in Russia?  We eat the black bread, do not order caviar and John avoids the beet borsch because beets are the only thing he doesn’t eat.  I point out to him that he was eating a beet salad on the plane; however he didn’t realize what he was eating. On our first night here, we decide not to partake in vodka toasting.

After dinner we go back to Red Square where the GUM, Kremlin and St. Basil’s are all lit up magnificently.  People are strolling and enjoying the atmosphere and eating at outside cafes.  We have heard very little English this entire day and those to whom we have asked questions have either ignored us or looked at us in confusion. 
I feel a bit like a child with autism as I can't understand the language or be understood when I talk and even reading is perplexing because the alphabet is different. I wish we were with a Russian friend who we could ask questions about real life here.

See Part 3 next