Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Blog #1: With Friends Under the Tuscan Sun in Casa Tonio, Lucca, Italy


With Friends Under the Tuscan Sun in Casa Tonio, Lucca Italy



Without I-pads and Google Lost Forever

Following an Incredible Years mentor meeting in Terracina, Italy with colleagues from places such as Norway, Denmark, Holland, New Zealand, Scotland, Ireland, Wales, Russia, Canada and US, I leave this astonishing and amazing group of people to meet up with college girl friends and their partners in a village 15-20 minutes outside of Lucca. 

Incredible Years Mentors in Terracina, Italy 


 Following John’s I-pad Google map that we find is superior to his Garmin GPS we are proud of making good time until we miss a turnoff outside of Florence and end up in a Seattle-like traffic jam. An hour later we are back on track and happy with Google until we enter a maze of small, narrow roads amongst the hills above Lucca.  The Google map sent us to the address we had entered which is not the house we have rented but rather an Agritourismo. We curse Google Maps as being less than perfect and scurry like mice back and forth in a maze following some email directions sent to us that asked us to drive by a cemetery and turn left at a white house. We continue to make wrong turns, running into dead ends and not finding the white house.  Perhaps I thought these directions were meant as a treasure hunt and I hope there will be a prize at the end. Or, perhaps on the other hand we are beginning the dementia stage of life. Eventually, by a stroke of luck we find a small poorly marked sign, Casa Tonio, that is impossible to see from the north direction of the road


and nearly impossible to see from the south direction. 

Nonetheless, magical forces lead us to a wonderful, stone house enfolded in dozens of ancient olive trees.  We are met by Luciano who gives us detailed instructions in Italian only on the house.  These fall on deaf ears.  A little later our friends Joan and Andrew from Vancouver arrive also in a distressed state having experienced a similar maze-like frustrating experience.  They had entered the Agritourismo place and had been given further directions.  We can’t imagine how Julie and Ted who are flying in to Pisa around 10 pm and taking a taxi will find this obscure place in the dark. We text them messages hoping they will open their I-phones.

The four of us go out to dinner finding that most restaurants in the immediate vicinity are closed and compromise with Joan on what she thought was a trailer-Mafia-like place called Pizzeria Regina ~ hardly Joan’s vision of an elegant Italian meal.  However, the pasta was excellent, the Don head of the Mafia family was friendly and we ended our meal with tiramisu-like profiteroles drowned in dark chocolate.  On the way home we are lucky enough to come across a candlelight parade of people dressed in white robes carrying a bed with the Virgin Mary on it. We don’t understand the meaning of this clearly religious event but the church bells ringing create a rather mystical, eerie feeling of a tradition that probably has been going on for centuries.  Back at our house Joan and Andrew wait on the roadside hoping to direct our friends to our place.  When Andrew’s I-pad battery dies they retreat home feeling defeated.  About midnight our bedraggled Canadian friends led by a very anxious taxi cab driver arrives having stopped at several places to ask directions.  We had all made it… the beginning of a long awaited trip together of good friends. Later we repair our relationship with Google maps when we discover the address we had been given was wrong and the email instructions were about 4 years old and misleading~ the white house having been painted beige.

Casa Tonio
Our laundry out for drying 
Sunday morning we are greeted with a bright sunny day from our bed, which has an arched window overlooking a view of olive trees, a church and a beautiful pool.  We all head for the nearby village and find a wonderful patisserie with all varieties of croissants with varying fillings such as marmalade and chocolate or is it Nutella?  There are line-ups for espressos and cappuccinos sprinkled with chocolate ~ and we are pleased with our double and
single espressos and treats and look like delighted youngsters in a candy store. 





Across from this patisserie we notice a market set up to sell clothing and shoes.  I am encouraged by Julie and Joan to buy a wool and cashmere shawl and am reassured it will be cheaper to buy here (because it is non touristy!) than in Lucca.  At the end of this market we find Andrew, Ted and John enjoying an antique car show. John heads back for another double espresso while Julie and Ted are delighted to find an antique Austin Healey, a car once owned by Ted and still owned by Julie and housed in her garage for possible use by her sons. 



Next our band of six finds a Super Mercado and each one of us searches for his or her favorite foods such as local fresh olives, fresh cantaloupe (melone) and tomatoes (pomodori), granola, beer, Italian wine, cheese, prosciutto, bread, yogurt and digestive cookies.  On the way back John wants to stop at what is now his favorite, local Pizzeria Regina for a funghi pizza and I keep him company when he visits his Mafia friend, the Don, who shakes hands with us. Afterwards back at the Casa the rest of us enjoy a lunch of cheese, prosciutto, melon, bread, fresh fruit and arugula salad.  We are visited by the owner of the Casa and the caretaker, an Albanian man. We try to explain to these two men who speak no English that we have a problem with the entrance gate closing and opening, need another key as well as a hair dryer amongst other things. John tries using his I pad for translations while Andrew speaks to them using a combination of Spanish and French.  


Hands are pointing and gesturing wildly and I am not entirely sure what is accurately understood but we do manage to get a key (which we later learn doesn’t work) and a hair dryer (which does work).

Our first dinner together in Lucca
After siesta time and a swim, we set out eagerly for dinner in Lucca. John has researched the Lucca restaurants in 3 guidebooks and has found what looks to be a great restaurant; however, unfortunately when we get there is it closed. As we are all hungry for Italian food we take a chance on another place that we have not researched called Locanda Buca de Bacco.  I comment to John that it is okay to be spontaneous and it is not necessary to research or check Trip Advisor for everything but rather to enjoy the process of self-discovery. This restaurant has a pleasant Italian atmosphere but unfortunately while it may be called the God of Wine it is not heavenly, has bad food, terrible chaotic service and is not food to die for.  We are not served at the same time, and several of us wait an hour while others have finished their meal before their meal is served. Our meal takes more than 2 hours and is highly disorganized, including the waitress being unable to add up the bill correctly. Later John checks out the reviews on Trip Advisor and finds numerous reviews saying this is the worst restaurant in Italy ever ~ I begin to value John’s data-based approach more highly.

Girl Friends

Joan, Julie and Carolyn 
Julie, Joan and I have known each other for 46 years. Julie and I went to school in Switzerland for a year when we were 18 years old and at that time traveled for several weeks in Italy. The three of us went to the University of Toronto together ~ and while I hate to admit it, we were sisters in the Pi Phi fraternity together.  Walking in the market that morning I was reminded of my market shopping times with Julie in 1965 and surprised to find we had not changed very much.  Julie is still decisive and a great bargainer, always getting the best price while I still am indecisive, never bargain and need peer support to buy anything.  Julie and Joan had moved to Vancouver from Toronto around the same time I moved to Seattle in the 70’s so we have had the fortunate experience of being able to share many important life events together such as producing babies around the same times, supporting each other’s parenting difficulties and joys, and being there with love for times when one partner died, one got divorced and one of us had a serious injury. We have always enjoyed holidays together on Vashon, Hornby Island and Mexico as well as skiing together at Whistler and celebrating key landmarks such as birthdays, anniversaries and retirement events.  It is a special privilege to have such long-term supportive friends who have weathered life events together and make you feel like you are 18 again.



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