January 5, 2014
Operation Shut Down
Bangkok ~ Will the Golden Buddha allow it?
Next morning we are up early at our breakfast spot on the
river terrace reading the Bangkok Post.
John comments, “I’m getting jaded.
Bangkok doesn’t seem to amaze me.” I wonder what has prompted this
thinking? Too much shopping? Perhaps
markets and massages are too familiar after Turkey and the Middle East but what
could be more exciting? I find it all amazing.. just watching the people
fascinates me. Does he want to be part of the Bangkok protest?
In reading the Bangkok Post we discover that today is the
first of four rehearsal days of practice protests calling for the shut down of
the government. Since early November Kamnan Suthep and his anti-government
followers, called the People’s Democratic Reform Committee (PDRC), have been
camped out at the Democracy Monument. The PDRC are saying that the current Prime
Minister Yingluck Shinawata ( woman) must “step down”. She is the sister of the
former prime minister who was found guilty of treason in 2008 and is accused of
corruption. Today the PDRC will leave their prior protest location and spread
out to six different locations in Bangkok to prepare for the real protest event
scheduled for January 13th. They plan to shut down central Bangkok
by blocking all traffic at 20 major intersections, closing government offices,
halting all police work and bringing anarchy to the center of Bangkok with
their 19 day march and protests. Furthermore, they plan to shut off electricity
to government offices and are telling people to see their doctors now because
unless they have money for an ambulance they will not be able to get to the
hospital.
History of the 2008 and 2010 protests portent that this protest will lead to further violence, economic loss and loss of tourism. However, Mr. Suthep says, “you can’t make an omelet without breaking eggs.” Already today the bhat has dropped to 33 bhat to one dollar and stocks are plummeting. Having recently experienced the US government shut down by the Republican Party I wonder about the value of such an approach. When and where does compromise and problem solving occur? Perhaps one shouldn’t be eating eggs in the first place.
History of the 2008 and 2010 protests portent that this protest will lead to further violence, economic loss and loss of tourism. However, Mr. Suthep says, “you can’t make an omelet without breaking eggs.” Already today the bhat has dropped to 33 bhat to one dollar and stocks are plummeting. Having recently experienced the US government shut down by the Republican Party I wonder about the value of such an approach. When and where does compromise and problem solving occur? Perhaps one shouldn’t be eating eggs in the first place.
The prime minister and army appear to be holding steady at
the moment. And the much loved king has said that everyone wants the same thing
~ happiness, prosperity and peace but there is no agreement about how to get
there. The scheduled election for February 2nd looks grim as the
PDRC are trying to stop it from happening. The “white shirts” set off white
balloons to support the idea of letting the election go forward. The “red
shirts”, who are pro government, are mapping out a counter strategy to the shut
down effort and are staging rallies throughout the country. The Bangkok Post
says that the military is moving tanks and guns into the city. The PDRC who are reported to have 6000 hard-core
protestors are said to be willing to take drugs to cause violence at the upcoming
protest.
I wonder if we will be able to return to US on January 23
out of Bangkok. Already airlines such as Singapore Airlines are cancelling
fights to Bangkok from mid January to late February. We plan our day’s schedule to bypass the main protest areas
such as Chinatown and decide to start with the Golden Buddha. There is
something paradoxical about being in a largely Buddhist country and organizing
our day around sites where protests won’t be happening. What happened to the Buddhist
philosophy of peace and compromise? Perhaps the golden Buddha will give us
insight.
Sukhothai Wat Trainit
~ Golden Buddha Insights
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| Golden Buddha |
John bargains with a taxi driver to take us to the Golden
Buddha and the flower market for 400 bhats (12 dollars). He has a lovely air
conditioned car and waits for us at the Golden Buddha while we see this site
early enough in the morning when there are very few tourists. Or, perhaps tourists
are staying away because of possible demonstrations. We are told this is the largest Golden Buddha Image in the world
and he seems to have the mara-conquering attitude. He is made of pure gold and measures 12 feet 5 inches in
diameter by 15 feet 9 inches high.
He weighs 5.5 tons and my brochure says has a value of 28.5 million
pounds, although John’s tour book says he is valued at over 250 million
dollars. Originally this
Buddha was completely covered with plaster or stucco to conceal it from enemies.
When it was moved to its current site in 1955 part of its plaster was broken
revealing it is made of pure gold.
We ask our taxi driver to take us to Wat Pho instead of the
flower market ~ John offers him an extra 20 bhats for this. Not sure whether our
driver is happy or insulted with this meager bonus but nonetheless he takes us
there. We say goodbye with promises that we might call him the next day to go
to the river market.
Wat Pho (what for?) ~
the Reclining Buddha
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| Wat Pho Stupas |
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| Wat Pho Stupas |
This place is an amazing surprise not because the world’s
largest reclining Buddha is located here but because of its sprawling,
stupa-studded grounds. There are 4
towering stupas representing 4 kings and 91 smaller stupas. Additionally Wat
Pho has the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand with over 394 Buddhas.
The place feels somewhat less
commercial ~ at least at this early time of day but perhaps the Buddhas are
transmitting this relaxed, meditative atmosphere.
In addition, there are amazing Chinese rock (granite) giants scattered about guarding the entrances. I like these the best and ask John to stand next to one in the male pose of authority. They have bulging eyes and opera style costumes.
We easily spend 90 minutes here even before seeing the reclining Buddha who I think looks female. (Why are Buddha’s thought to be male?)
This Buddha (measuring 46 meters long by 15 meters high) represents the passing of Buddha into nirvana. She is made of plaster with a brick core and finished in gold leaf but not solid gold like the Golden Buddha.
The place feels somewhat less
commercial ~ at least at this early time of day but perhaps the Buddhas are
transmitting this relaxed, meditative atmosphere. In addition, there are amazing Chinese rock (granite) giants scattered about guarding the entrances. I like these the best and ask John to stand next to one in the male pose of authority. They have bulging eyes and opera style costumes.
We easily spend 90 minutes here even before seeing the reclining Buddha who I think looks female. (Why are Buddha’s thought to be male?)
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| Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho |
This Buddha (measuring 46 meters long by 15 meters high) represents the passing of Buddha into nirvana. She is made of plaster with a brick core and finished in gold leaf but not solid gold like the Golden Buddha.
WATPO Thai
Traditional Medical and Massage School and Students
It is not long before we come across the national
headquarters for teaching traditional Thai medicine, which includes Thai
massage. Here there is a famous
massage school and John heads for this place like a bee to honey. He signs up for a head and neck massage
and I take off to explore.
I meet
up right away with a group of 6 teenage girls who want to interview me and are
carefully using a questionnaire, writing down my answers and recording exactly what I
say (qualitative research). No human subjects’ forms are signed so I negotiate asking if I can ask
them questions and take pictures of them as well. They giggle and are delighted and laugh when they ask
me my favorite Thai food and I say mango fruit.
I ask them if they plan to go to university and they aren’t sure. One of them tells me she wants to be a nurse. I encourage this idea and they giggle as I take pictures of them and they take pictures of me. Next I ask them what they think of the anti-government protests and the prime minister. I ask, “Is she a model for them of competent leadership”? Suddenly they are quiet and pretend not to understand. I push for a response but we end up saying good-bye with me none the wiser.
Later I talk to a group of boys and get a similar response.
Next I follow my instinct into a stupa where I had noticed loads of shoes out front earlier and find myself in a Buddha prayer group with 12 monks who are chanting.
I sit and watch but feel I am part of something private and should not be here. Nonetheless they don’t ask me to leave and I enjoy the meditative moment. Perhaps I will be a monk in my next life.
 |
| High school girls interview me |
I ask them if they plan to go to university and they aren’t sure. One of them tells me she wants to be a nurse. I encourage this idea and they giggle as I take pictures of them and they take pictures of me. Next I ask them what they think of the anti-government protests and the prime minister. I ask, “Is she a model for them of competent leadership”? Suddenly they are quiet and pretend not to understand. I push for a response but we end up saying good-bye with me none the wiser.
Later I talk to a group of boys and get a similar response.
Next I follow my instinct into a stupa where I had noticed loads of shoes out front earlier and find myself in a Buddha prayer group with 12 monks who are chanting.
 |
| Monk Prayers |
I sit and watch but feel I am part of something private and should not be here. Nonetheless they don’t ask me to leave and I enjoy the meditative moment. Perhaps I will be a monk in my next life.
Back to meet John who feels this massage has been more
competent than his previous market one but says, “I am not cured yet.”
He paid 250 bhats (about $7) for 30 minutes.. still cheaper than the
hotel massages.
Vegetable and Flower
Market
Outside of Wat Pho we hail a tuck tuck to take us to the
flower market. We are taken about 3-4 blocks and John pays the driver 600 bhats
without negotiating. I comment
that he didn’t bargain and just paid more for that tuck tuck trip than he paid our
prior taxi driver for his air conditioned car who spent over an hour driving
and waiting for us. Hmm…. perhaps
this guy deserved more?
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| Bangkok Vegetable Market |
We spent a wonderful hour in this market ~ it seemed like a giant Costco where vegetables were sold in huge quantities. Men were madly running back and forth in great haste with huge bamboo wicker baskets either on their backs, or on bicycles or motorcycles to deliver their vegetables and fruits.
I was sure I would get run over and indeed one of the motorcycles runs into my leg because I am too busy trying to take close up pictures rather than watching where I am standing.
I am entranced by a young man who is patiently peeling garlic heads to place in a gigantic bag for sale. I imagine this must take all day to fill one bag.
Others are filling plastic bags with lettuce or beans.
In the flower section women were sitting around making flower necklaces or elaborately designed flower arrangements. They people seem so patient with this process and proudly smile at me when I take pictures of them without asking for money. They are the epitome of "mindfulness" and not distracted from their work.
I was sure I would get run over and indeed one of the motorcycles runs into my leg because I am too busy trying to take close up pictures rather than watching where I am standing.
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| Man on bike with produce |
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| Peeling garlic |
Others are filling plastic bags with lettuce or beans.
In the flower section women were sitting around making flower necklaces or elaborately designed flower arrangements. They people seem so patient with this process and proudly smile at me when I take pictures of them without asking for money. They are the epitome of "mindfulness" and not distracted from their work.
Dinner Cruise on Mae Nam Chao Phraya River
Amazingly we meet as planned our Seattle friends Zanny and
Skip at the city pier. Our
reconnoiter is as seamless as if we are meeting them at Express Cuisine on
Vashon. John has reserved a dinner cruise along the Mae Nam Chao Phraya River
because Skip had done this years ago and had fond memories of this event. We board one of the authentic looking wooden rice boats that holds 5 tables on each side ~ there are perhaps 20 people total. John has booked a 7 course meal of Thai specialties for three of us and a 9 course meal for himself. While I have said he could eat some of my courses I happily enjoyed all the fabulous and elegantly displayed food. As we drift along the river we view the Wat Arun (which we haven't visited), palace, and temples lit up at night and looking magical. It is especially fun to be sharing this trip with our close friends from Seattle. Zanny takes pictures of every course ~ I wonder if I will try to cook Thai when we get home but am sure Zanny will.
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