Colombo ~ Will this be the last day for President Rajapaksa?

January 8-9

Colombo ~ Will this be the Last Day for President Rajapaksa?

 

We arrive in Colombo on a historic election day for Sri Lankans.  President Mahinda Rajapaksa has called an election 2 years before he had to, probably because he expected easy re-anointing for his 3^rd Presidential term.  In 2010, 57% of the population voted for him in his 2^nd election. His popularity at that time probably rested on his role in ending Sir Lanka’s 26-year-old civil war by defeating the Tamil Tigers.  The Tamil Tigers fought for the creation of a separate state in the north of Sri Lanka for the largely Hindu Tamil minority.  The Tamils had been subject to  discrimination by the majority ethnic-Sinhalese (about 70% of the population) who are largely Buddhist.  The Sinhalese army victory over the Tamils was ruthless and cost thousands of civilian lives. There have been charges that the army, like the Tamils, committed war crimes including killing tens of thousands of civilians in the final stage of the war.

Discontent with the current president Rajapaksa has occurred because he did little for the poor or minorities and because he stacked the administration with his family (4 brothers, son, nephew) in many important governmental positions.  His brother Gotabaya is Minister of Defense, another brother Basil runs economy while a third brother is parliamentary speaker. Moreover he changed the constitution removing the 2-term limit on presidential tenures.  During his time corruption worsened and probing journalists and social activists have lived in fear. Apparently he has been critical of the West and resentful of their harping on Sri Lanka’s failure to support human rights.  Consequently he has drawn the country closer to China where aid is not hampered by such human rights concerns. Rising prices for rice, higher taxes, government corruption and one family oligarchy rule are reasons why there is much discontent and his fall was predicted.

Beacon of Hope ~ Opponent Maithripala Sirisena (63 years old and 6 years younger that the Raj) has had four decades in politics. He was a leading light in the family party and was health minister and general secretary of Sri Lanka Freedom Party (SLFP) until he defected in November. He is thought to be the best hope of ending oligarchy or a dynastic dictatorship, curing some of its ethnic ills and the only way of saving Sri Lanka democracy.  Supposedly his campaign is backed by the West, although no proof of Western meddling has been provided.

We meet our guide, Karu, at the airport at 4:30 and he is excited because the election voting has just ended at 4 o’clock.  He is pro Sirisena and seems confident he will win.  He tells us that he believes that as new President Sirisena will try to do something for farmers and lower taxes. He is popular with the Sinhalese majority and has promised constitutional amendments, the end of corruption, and “moral” society without drugs, cigarettes and alcohol. Many parliamentarians have defected to his side as well as the Sri Lanka Muslim Congress  & Tamil National Alliance (Muslims and Tamils make up 25% of population).  Karu tells us the elections have been peaceful so far but that we should not walk into town late in the day.  He seems to believe that the Raj and his family have already left Sri Lanka. He believes that Raj's son has sent his 4 Lamborghini cars to another country and that Basil will flee to America because he has a green card.

Tintagel Hotel 

Marie & John Planners for Trip

We meet our friends Marie and Steve who arrived earlier that morning at the Tintagel Hotel who arrived earlier that morning.  

We talk about the elections and they tell us that everyone they have met that day was excited about the possibility of change in the government. There is much hope in the air.  While John and Steve take naps Marie and I walk up the nearby street to see if anything is happening. It all looks very quiet and peaceful but we don’t walk too far. It seems fitting that we are staying in a delightful small hotel that was previously the home of Prime Minister Bandaranaike in the 50’s. He was shot here on the verandah and his widow became the world’s first female Prime Minister. She was elected 1970 and 1990 and has been the longest serving Prime Minister in Sri Lanka.

Election Results

The next morning we have a relaxed breakfast on the hotel’s outdoor patio and Steve announces that Sirisena has won! The hotel staff seem ecstatic and everyone is smiling. While the final numbers have not been announced apparently the Raj has already announced he has stepped down and we are told he has left. 

 

We set out early for the markets of Pettah by taking two tuk-tuks, which are 3-wheeled vehicles with roofs.  

Our guidebook tells us that this ancient market is one of the most ethnically mixed places in the country and will have crowds reaching Biblical proportions.  However, when we arrive it is quiet and peaceful with all shops closed due to the holiday in honor of the election. 
 

We wander around the streets stopping to talk to people sitting around chatting and reading the newspaper. Everyone smiles and seems pleased with the outcome.  Newspapers report that 70% of eligible voters have voted. 

For others life goes on as usual.  

 

Hindu Temples and Buddhist Mosques

Hindu Temple

Taking off our shoes and covering our shoulders we wonder into a small Hindu Temple.  Steve who speaks Tamil surprises the monks as he names various statues. Marie tells me about the war god Murugan.  We are lucky to have these two friends as our cultural tour guides.  

Muslim Mosque

We also enter a Muslim mosque that is being renovated. Here only the men are allowed inside this decorative building with candy-stripped red and white brickwork.  John gets lost in the mosque and we wonder if he has been converted.  At 11 am it must be 95 degrees and John tells me it is 95% humidity. This explains why I am dripping like a faucet.  

Back at the hotel Marie and I find out that a few stores are open and we head off for Barefoot store to view its textiles.  Sri Lanka has a thriving weaving industry and Marie is anxious to find a tablecloth.  This lovely store has many bright colored textiles but we limit our purchases to textile-covered notebooks for journaling and Marie buys a small mouse and elephant. We wait impatiently for lunch at the Barefoot Café which takes over an hour.

I feel we haven’t totally reached a mindfulness state yet as we are both still in a hurry, mostly because there is more we want to see and we feel we are running out of time.

Back at the hotel for a refreshing swim first and then off to Galle Park Hotel for a drink and an oceanfront view of the sunset.  We discover that the government has allowed no liquor sales on January 8 and 9^th in an effort to reduce any violence.  This approach seems to have worked as all seems peaceful but we are surprised there are not more celebrations. 

Next we visit the Gangaramaya Temple  where some people are chanting and singing.  In the back of this sprawling temple we find a small elephant and are encouraged by the handlers to stroke the elephant’s skin.  Steve even puts his hand in its mouth and touches its tongue. I am somewhat distressed by the big chains on the elephant’s legs.  This sprawling temple is a mash of eclectic objects that have been given as gifts to the temple over many years. There are Hindu as well as Buddhist statues. Off in the distance we hear fireworks going off to celebrate the new President. We wonder if the people are feeling the same hopeful elation we did when Obama first was elected. We hope they are not disappointed with unrealistic expectations.

Modern Camel Racing in Dubai

January 7, 2015

Blog #1~ Modern Camel Racing in Dubai

We left for Dubai on January 5^th, taking the newest Emirate Airline airplane A380-800 from Los Angelos.  Business class on this plane is like first class on BA ~ with amazing service, food, movies and comfortable beds. Our 16 hour flight to Dubai seemed to go by quickly although we still didn’t manage more than a few hours of sleep. Our trip destination was actually Sri Lanka but John wanted to spend a day in Dubai first.  We had visited Dubai 2 years ago on our way to Oman and I thought he wanted to return here because he was smitten with the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest tower (half a mile high). I knew he wasn’t returning to see the world’s largest mall. Funny how men are attracted by tall and very big things.  I was less interested in the Burj although I did have fond memories of the Palace Hotel and watching the spectacular waterfall fountain ballet music show.

It quickly became apparent that John’s mission was to see the camel races which were running for 3 days only when we were there. Surprisingly we found it difficult to find out from the internet and concierge where the races were held or what time they were to start.  Even the taxi driver was not familiar with these races and believed we wanted to see horse races at a different race track.  With John’s I-pad in hand and the Pakistani taxi driver willing to use his I-phone to call friends for directions we drove for 45 minutes out into the desert searching for the race track.  John turns to me delighted saying, “another adventure”.  Suddenly I see herds of camels being led camel riders down a dirt track.  We stop by a motor cade of 6-8 SUV vehicles and our driver gets out asking in Arabic where the entrance is to the race. We discover we have arrived.  We find that the men in these SUVs are the camel trainers who zoom along the road next to the race track coaching their sprinting camels. Using a walkie-talkie they talk to their camels making a throaty, clucking sound. Placed on the back of each racing camel is a tiny robot jockey (with rechargeable batteries and fancy silk clothes) weighing only a few pounds that both transmit the trainer’s voice and sends a signal for the robot to whip the camel’s back. 

Camel Racing a Cultural Tradition

To our delight we have luckily happened upon a truly authentic sport that is not a tourist attraction but a local tradition that has been part of Arabian culture for generations.  Apparently some historians date camel racing back to the 7^th century. There were only a handful of tourists and no other taxis.  We ask our driver to wait for us and he smiles saying we will need him to get back.  He seems as excited by the event as we are. 

Surprisingly the grandstand is mostly empty. We are told that this lack of attendance does not mean a lack of passion because most sheiks and fans prefer to watch the events live on a TV channel dedicated to camel racing. We notice many cameras and an SUV with a camera on its roof which races along side the trainer’s SUVs filming the race.  Owning a camel in the Gulf countries is considered an honor and even may be used to pay a woman’s dowry.  Like horses there are thoroughbred camels with prices ranging from $2700 to $815,000.  Camels cost about $275 a month to feed, train and house them.  First place in a  camel race can bring in over $200,000.  Betting is not allowed. I wonder what the objects are on the backs of the camels. 

Camel Handlers

As I take pictures I realize I am one of only there women at this track. The camel handlers look at me with confusion as if I am from outer space. I feel like I am a strange zoo animal. However, I find these men quite handsome and stare back at them. Only the camels smile and wink at me.

 

Children are Replaced with Robots

Racing camels in U.A.E. became more organized in the 80’s and 90’s.  Many camel owners originally used light weight children as jockeys, some as young as 2 or 3 years of age. According to a recent New York Times article these children were imported from countries such as Afghanistan, Pakistan, and Sudan. Falls and injuries were common. Trading, bartering and kidnapping of child jockeys as well as abuse were frightenly frequent.  It was estimated that 40,000 child jockeys were being used in the Persian Gulf.  The horrors of human trafficking has damaged this sport’s reputation, even though the practice of using children has been officially banned for 12 years in the U.A.E.  

The production of robots to replace children began in 2003. These robots can be dressed with silk accessories to look like tiny jockeys which weigh only a few pounds and sit on metal saddles. Trainers use remote entry clickers (like you use for opening your car) to activate a spinning whip from their SUV and the walkie talkies allow the trainer to speak to the camel.

The Race

Three groupings of 5-6 camels are lined up behind the starting line with their noses pressed against a dangling barriers waiting for the signal and the gate to be lifted. 

Each grouping of camels has Arabic men checking their robots, whip and walkie talkies. The races are continuous as one group of camels crosses the finish line, the gate is lifted and another race starts. 

SUVs race around after the camels honking horns and coaching their action through walkie-talkies and jockeys.

It is amazing to see these camels with such spindly legs gallop up to 40 miles an hour down this 3 mile track.  I am remined of  my days of rowing races in an 8-person shell where a light-weight coxswain commuicates through a cox box and speakers to coordinate the power of the rowers.

Finish Line 

While I have been taking pictures John has been talking to a Syrian camera man from Damascus about Syria.  He is told that the US is supporting ISIS and is the reason for Syrian’s wars. This articulate, friendly and seemingly well educted man is a supporter of Bashar el-Assad and holds Obama and the US government responsible for the woes of current Syria. I think about technology advancing camel races and the technology of war with the use of drones.  I  wonder how culture, social media and modern technology informs our perceptions and belief systems and how we discover truth. For our first day of travel my thoughts have been challenged. Am I just a camel being manipulated?