Saturday, October 13, 2018

Charembeau an Incredible Place and Incredible People

September 2018 

Charembeau an Incredible Place with Incredible People


Do you recall almost 30 years ago reading the books ~  A year in Provence followed by Toujour Provence by Peter Mayle? I remember dreaming of having a second home in a derelict farmhouse next to a vineyard where I could bike to the market for morning croissants and cheese. After all my British cousin had moved to France to do exactly this and had opened a B&B for tourists in southern France. Should I have another career?  


As we bike past the lavender fields, layers of vines dripping with purple grapes, the Luberon mountains in the background, and stopping for a croissant, French bread or some amazing cheese with a cappuccino I ponder the idea of a gentler retirement away from Trumpism. 





I think how nice it is to only ponder whether I will find truffles or fresh tomatoes at the next meal or market, or view a beautiful sunset behind centuries old Roman ruins. Perhaps I dream we will run into Peter Mayle, now in his 70’s who lives in Menerbes one of the nearby villages. My French is incredibly rusty but I find I understand much more than I dare speak and love the cadence and emotional energy in the French chatter. At meals I notice an incredible choreographed dance in the way the French communicate with each other with energy and emotion and this fascinates me.  Can I learn to do this?


Meeting at Charembeau Hotel, Forcalquier

Charembeau Hotel

This is a different trip for us without a scheduled agenda or planned and reserved hotel reservations. I have just completed my yearly international Incredible Years meeting with 48 mentors for 4 days at the lovely country, family owned, Charembeau Hotel, an 18thcentury farmhouse near Forcalquier, a village of 4000 people in Cote de Alps. I was exhausted with worries about people’s satisfaction and evaluations but pleased that most people seemed to enjoy this meditative spot and reconnecting with each other to talk about ways to help families and teachers. I rented the whole hotel, and it was the first time this family hotel had ever done that in 35 years of ownership. They also seemed pleased with the result and shared with me how difficult it was to change their usual habits of having single guests versus an entire group that didn’t leave the hotel to give them a break during the day.
Owner of Hotel 

 They provided incredible service to everyone with wonderful breakfasts and lunches of local foods, fresh flowers everywhere, always seeming happy to accommodate and help us with our break out presentation room needs. 


Jamila who helped me plan the meeting


I had overestimated the mentor interest for this meeting and when there were not enough rooms for everyone at the hotel, 16 people had to stay in the town of Forcalquier about 2 miles away. I knew this would be disappointing for them but hoped they would understand. This also created some issues regarding the size of the breakout rooms which were too small, but with some re-design and problem solving with my colleague and friend Jamila we managed to make it work.  

“C’est la vie” would be the French way of thinking about this. 


Incredible Years Mentor Group from Australia, Canada, Denmark, England, Holland, Northern Ireland, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, Scotland, and United States


Forcalquier Village between Lure and Luberon mountain ranges

Entering Forcalquier
Biking: John arrived Friday afternoon in time for our final workshop celebration dinner in Forcalquier and we stayed on two more days for him to adjust to time change and for me to unwind from the event. We had no scheduled hotels or travel plan except for the last two nights in Carcassonne.  One day we took advantage of the e-bikes supplied by the hotel to explore the nearby roads and villages. The views of the Luberon mountain ranges were spectacular.  E-biking was definitely the way to go with the hills and narrow pathways and took us far further than we would have been able to go without the assisted power. 


Market Day: I love markets and Monday morning was the lively weekly market day in sleepy Forcalquier, a village of 4,000. The market filled the streets with hundreds of stalls in front of a 12thcentury cathedral called Notre-Dame-du-Bouget and wrapped around side streets in a festive atmosphere. Even John didn’t seem to be in a hurry to escape this shopping adventure and sat waiting for me while I was amazed by the profusion of buttons and linens, hand made baby items and local produce.  



We enjoyed the sights and friendly atmosphere. The market seemed to have a mind boggling supply of choices of French linens as well as organic products with many kinds of cheeses, sausages, breads, oils, garlic  and herbs. And baskets galore. 









As I already had a suitcase of workshop materials, projector and puppets John reminded me I had no room to buy and take home more things as I already had 3 full suitcases of workshop materials and clothes!

One suitcase of puppets!
Nonetheless, I did succumb to buying herbs, nougat, lavender, a basket and of course some cute shoes (non gender related) for my impending grandchild. When I asked the vendor if I could get these herbs through customs and he replied, “maybe, maybe not”.  I loved walking the cobblestone streets lined with stone walls, colorful shutters and window plants and a square centered with a 16thcentury fountain. 

So many possible pictures to take, how would I ever choose which ones to share? Already my portable computer is telling me it is too full!  I know that electronic modernization and efficiency is supposed to be progress and a long term goal but I did wonder if perhaps the movement towards “living in the moment” and enjoying the beauty of the present and past was perhaps an equally valued goal. 
Forcalquier side street with many plants by road way

Technically, Forcalquier is part of Provence, but is not included in Michelin’s guide to Provence or Rick Steve’s guide. However, Provence consists beyond the Luberon environment described by Peter Mayle and this market turned out to be the largest and most interesting market we visited in all of Provence. The market closed at 1:00 pm and I took John to the place where I had previously had tomato salad with my friend, Jamila. I had bragged to John how amazing the tomatoes were and had even showed him my picture of them so he was salivating. 

Unfortunately, these tomatoes were no longer on the menu.  Nonetheless he could choose from galette (crepe with cheese and jambon), or quiche, or croquet monsieur or croquet madame (grilled ham and cheese with egg on top).  After lunch the town returned to the sleepy state I had seen the week before. We returned to Charembeau for a visit with 2 mentor friends who stayed on after the workshop. 


Sunday, July 8, 2018

Canada beckons

Banff, Alberta, Canada beckons 
June 2018
Where water goes, life follows. Life is water, and so is the earth.  
Robert Sanford 



I am driven to the mountains in Canada like a salmon migrating from the ocean to where my life originally began. Of course in this case I am not going to lay eggs but am going to reflect on the amazing life cycle of the mountain glaciers and water. And I bring along the product of John’s fertilization of my egg, that is, my daughter, Anna with her partner, Zach. My goal is twofold. First that they both will be smitten with the same passion I have for Canada and secondly, they will take me hiking where I dare not go alone. They are both like mountain goats loving to hike and climb and find isolated spots.  I reflect that once I was encouraging and supporting Anna's adventures and now our roles are reversed as she works to make sure I am adequately hydrated and dressed appropriately!   

Day #1: Ice fields Parkway

Columbia Icefield 


On the first day John and I drive the Icefields Parkway that goes 230 kilometers along the Continental Divide from Lake Louise in Banff National Park up to the north of the Jasper National Park.  It is dotted with over 100 glaciers and ice fields, rocky spires, dense coniferous forests and alpine landscapes with each new breathtaking vision seeming to surpass the prior one. We stop at the Columbia Icefield which is the largest uninterrupted glacial mass in the Rockies. Erosions from water and ice have sculpted the mountains into amazing shapes as if a giant took a power tool to carve the current rugged shapes.  





Columbia Icefield


 Views of these amazing glaciers and ice fields receding at speed with river streams can't help but provoke one's thoughts about what is happening to our earth due to global warming. My emotions in response to these views are confused between the amazing beauty and inspiration of the scenery and the concern about the rapid change in our life time and the uncertainty of the future for these glaciers. 

This blog is not my usual rambling narrative but mostly pictures of numerous glaciers, ice fields and tourquoise lakes and pristine wilderness in the Rockies.  I hope to promote your own reflections about this small "tip of the iceberg" environmental problem in our amazing earth. How can we protect this? 




I take a small hike up above tree line ~ wonderful wilderness





 Will one day our grandchildren visit Banff National Park and think that glaciers are not real but science fiction? 

Along the highway in one of the car pull off lots we see a Rocky Mountain Big Horn sheep family? 






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While John and I explore the Iceland Parkway gawking at the glaciers and rivers, Anna and Zach hike into the mountains above the tree line onto glaciers. They must be up to 6000 feet about sea level. I am envious of their adventure. 









Day #2 Biking and Hiking
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 On the second day we do a combination of first biking in the park followed by a hike up to Johnston Falls. I originally thought I would bypass the biking opportunity but after watching all the bikers on the Icefield Parkway the day before I am motivated to try out this option. Actually I hope to see some elk or bears up close as we did on our last Banff trip.  






Zach keeps us nourished with Canada maple leaf cookies!

In the afternoon we hike up Johnston Falls, a popular day hike John and I had taken the year before. It has amazing catwalks that are affixed to the limestone clips and is congested with folks all ages and cultures (even dogs) who are given access into a deep canyon that otherwise only serious climbers would be able to see. We climb to the upper Johnston falls that cascades down 40 meters. Last year when we were here we saw grizzly bears & I remember being frustrated because I didn't have my telephoto camera and only my I phone. This time I am armed with my big camera but the bears don't comply, just one bird.










Lichen glisten like gold 








Baker Creek Mountain Resort
We stay in a casual resort consisting of log cabins, a lodge and Bistro. It originated circa 1949 by a gold miner and is situated at the edge of a creek and Bow River. Our 2 bedroom cabin has a stone fireplace, kitchen and no TV or internet. There are bikes and barbecues available to us.  Each day we have breakfast in our cabin and make lunches for our adventures. At night Anna and Zach build a bonfire by the river.  Yes a bit a heaven here. 













Day #3 Hiking to Backside of Castle Mountain ~ Rockbound Lake Trail 


Castle Mountain
Anna and Zach take me on an amazing hike up the back side of Castle Mountain. On the way up we are the only hikers and coming back we pass a few others but most of our trip we have been on our own. Apparently this is bear territory but we only manage to see a few marmots at the very top.

We hike several hours in the woods before we get above the tree line and then take switch backs up to the first lake.  I think perhaps I could stop here but I am encouraged by another hiker who tells me of the beauty at the very top with the lunes and the 2nd lake. So I push myself forward scrambling a bit on the last bit but with the support of Anna and Zach who remind me to drink water and stop to give me treats.  It takes 3 hours to get to the top where we have our lunch.  It was definitely worth the extra effort, especially to hear the lunes calling. 







Trying to decide whether to go beyond first lake


Anemone flower

Bunch Berry Dogwood 
Anna encourages me to drink! 
paint brush

Rockbound Lake and lunch 







On the way home just near our log cabin we see the elk and bear. This time I have my camera! The elk complies. 










Great Guides 




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