Sunday, March 1, 2020

Staying Alive and Christchurch's messages of endurance and hope

Day #6 Saturday Duntroon to Oamaru (54 km)
OOO Staying Alive

Kiwi Support 
John tells me it is cold and foggy outside and we a have 70-80 percent chance of rain which we can see in the distance.  Google maps show no signs of coffee shops or cafes along the way so no chance of getting warm, or a cappuccino if we are wet.  We reach Vaughn by a Skype call and arrange to be picked up after riding 35km.  We decide to wait out the weather as we did the prior day when the sun emerged mid morning. Finally, we reluctantly leave our batch (check out time 10 am) about 10:30 when it is still raining and the rain continues for the next 35 km. Before long we are cold with wet shoes and feet due to riding through small lakes on the trail (water up to my knees) and my hands are freezing. We have several uphill switchbacks which are difficult to navigate and John’s bike gear is giving him difficulty. I wonder if I can go on ….but there is no other option as we are on back trails in fields and there is no ability to call for a pick up. In fact, we saw no other riders along the entire 35km.  I know I like challenges but this perhaps is more challenge than needed. I think of 81-year-old Graham who we met earlier and seems relentless and try to adopt his attitude.

 We continue in the rain for 3 hours on a rocky trail without stopping for lunch or sadly even for picture taking. It is foggy and difficult to see the landscape with my wet and steamed up glasses. I can appreciate that given a sunny day this would be a gorgeous trail but at this time I am just hoping to get to the end alive. We pass through the supposedly unique elephant rocks but they just look like more rocks to me than elephants and we don’t stop. We are to be picked up at 1 pm but I can see we won’t make it and hope the van driver will wait for us. Otherwise it will be another 20km.  Going through a narrow train tunnel without a bike light I ram into the side of the tunnel which I can’t see and fall into a pile of mud.  Still no option of quitting so we persevere and arrive at 1:30 where thankfully our van is waiting for us.  We made it and suddenly feel quite impressed with ourselves.  Even John admits this is one of our more challenging rides. Since John is an avid biker I take this as a possible compliment. 

We made it..even if we missed a few km... B+ we are empowered

Reached the ocean at Omaru
We arrive in Omaru and stay at Poshtel Hotel a lovely place decorated with antiques. Our room has an antique rowing machine, rowing shoes and pictures of rowing teams from the early 1900’s. 


As I row daily at home on my erg I think about the value of exercise and being active.  Biking is more than a metaphor for cycling of life, I think perhaps life is like riding a bike. On this trip cycling over rocky, narrow trails and up and down the mountain saddle, in the mostly sunshine, the message to me has been about keeping one’s balance and perspective especially when coping with life’s adversity, yet still moving forward. However, I do think we should have had more snacks, especially black New Zealand licorice or Hokey Pokey  or Rocky Road clusters. 


This metaphor seemed particularly pertinent after visiting Christchurch the next day and learning how they are coping with the earthquake.









Day #7 Christchurch ~ messages of endurance & hope

Christchurch Cathedral

On Sunday we take a relaxing 4-hour bus ride to Christchurch arriving at The George Hotel which is quite a stepup from our prior accommodations.  We are even offered a gorgeous cappuccino when we arrive. Did they know about my addiction?  Christchurch is the largest city on the South Island and the seat of the Canterbury region. About 380,000 people live here and it is second to Auckland in size with the Avon River flowing through the center of it. I have not been here before but know that several IY mentors live and work here and have talked with some of them over the years about their experiences when a series of earthquakes occurred, the most serious on Tuesday February 22, 2011, in which 185 people were killed and 80% of the buildings suffered severe damage. 


We first go to the “Quake” museum for an hour before it closes and then the Botanic Gardens.  We return the next morning to the museum to see more of the movie interviews of people talking about their experiences during the earthquake. These are moving stories of heroism, hope, loss, support, recovery and ability to move forward despite many obstacles. It is clear that the thread between all these people's stories is their concern for other people in their family and community and how they are doing.  The museum also explains the science of liquefaction and how earthquakes develop due to the stresses of the plate tectonics breaking the surface and creating a fault line.  This is of particular interest to us as Seattle Fault Zone poses a risk and could be as large at M7. Interesting we read the local newspaper The Press where on the front page the Christchurch mayor apologizes for the city council’s failings in allowing dangerous and poorly designed buildings to go up, or remain standing. On this day there is a memorial service for the 185 people who lost their lives nine years ago. 


View on way to Lyttelton

Stuart and John 
The next day after returning to the Quake museum we are met by Stuart Martin, a local Kiwi friend who we met with his partner Julie 2 years ago on the Otaga Rail Trail bike trip. He has offered to take us touring to see the “less touristy” sites.  First we go to the outskirts of Christchurch city where his family home used to be.  Now due to the earthquake this area is just green wet lands park land. Homes no longer exist here because of the poor unstable “wetlands” soil. It is a completely changed landscape to that where Stuart grew up.  Next we drive to the historic port town of Lyttelton, consisting of about 3,000 people and teeming with cafes, quirky shops and restaurants.  Apparently this small town has reinvented itself after the earthquake when there was widespread demolition of many historical buildings. The port now is a regular destination for cruise liners. We stop for ice cream and I find it hard not to have Hokey Pokey flavor which reminds me of a childhood dance & was the name of my favorite wine in Auckland. Stuart tells us he has looked at houses to buy in this quaint place and I can understand why he was enticed.  Perhaps we could move here!  But definitely it is more touristy than Vashon and for that reason doesn’t appeal to John.

View from Stuart and Julie's home towards mountains and Christchurch


Next we drive on to Sumnara seaside suburb of Christchurch about 6 km away. Stuart shows us the rental house here where he and Julie hoped to live for only a year while their new house was being built. However, they ended up living there for 5 years because of the earthquake that set back their building 


project as new building regulations went in. His rental house is covered with cracks and he tells us the owner and construction workers are still involved in law suits over the costs to rebuild.  We arrive at their beautiful newly built house which has fantastic views of the city, mountains and ocean. Stuart, a true audiophile, shows us his music sound room full of top notch equipment and we relax enjoying the music in a meditative atmosphere without any distortions or distractions. John imagines setting up such a music room at our home.  Julie arrives home from her work as a gerontologist at a nearby hospital and she brings with her some takeout lamb shoulder which is quite wonderful. They introduce us to a lovely wine, Muddy Waters, and I wonder if we can get this is Seattle?  We especially enjoy our evening catching up on each other’s lives and life events.  


View down to Akaroa



The next day Stuart picks us up at 8:30 in the morning for a beautiful 90-minute drive to Akaroa, a settlement nestled in the heart of a volcano. This small resort town is also situated on a harbor and there are two large tour boats bringing in tourists to town in small boats. Here you can swim with the dolphins but it seems way too cold for me to want to attempt this. The temperature is cool and the sun is still trying to come out but nonetheless the beauty of the place is seductive. There are still elements of the historical French intention to colonize this place by the names of streets and hotels, but the British eventually proclaimed sovereignty of this area in 1840.  


Akaroa Port 
Boats bring in tourists
There are many art galleries, craft stores, B&Bs and markets here as well as a cooking school that Julie and Stuart had attended earlier in the year. The place definitely looks touristy, somewhat like Port Townsend in Washington State but despite its tourism I thought I would like to stay here for a few days, especially to attend the cooking school, kayak and hike some of the trails. After all I am a tourist! I end up here in a marino wool store (despite John's protests) and manage to buy a red marino possum sweater with the support of Stuart who has picked it out. We return to Christchurch for John’s nap time and stop on the way for a lovely lunch in a restaurant and artist enclave. 




 This is the kind of place I love with great organic food, desserts to die for and a relaxed atmosphere. We would like to buy a rock doormat but realize we can’t get it in our suitcases and it weighs a ton. I guess we do have rocks in Seattle and  I wonder if I can make one of these mats out of Vashon rocks?  It is interesting how places like this motivate one to be more artistic! 


Reluctantly we say good bye to Stuart with the hope he and Julie will visit us on Vashon. After naps we tour the Botanic Garden again which is gorgeous and learn about some amazing trees. Our last dinner is at 27 Steps restaurant and while John orders beef again I reluctantly say no to lamb because I have had it the past 2 nights and instead I chose risotto with mushrooms. All was delicious and we comment on how great the food has been in New Zealand.  We will miss this beautiful country with its values that we respect and our friendships.  If Trump gets in again as President I will seriously consider moving here. How does one remain living in a country when you don’t believe in any of its government’s values and policies?  We read in The Press newspaper about police swarming a Christchurch street because someone reported seeing someone with a gun. A police squad searched the area but no people of interest were found. This strikes me as odd and yet reassuring given that in the U.S. only large gun shootings seem to be reported in the paper! This press report was just about someone who thought they saw someone with a gun.  Wow! In this amazing country the Prime Minister immediately instigated gun control policies after their first mass shooting at a Muslim church about 1 year agoThey did away entirely with automatic weapons plus other things. Another reason to want to live here.






Days 3,4, & 5 The Challenges and Joys of Cycling

Days #3, 4 & 5 The Challenges and Joys of Cycling

Day #3 Wednesday, Twizel to Lake Ohau (38 km)
At what age does one stop cycling? 


We eat breakfast at Poppies and get the day’s lunches.  We cycle along the edge of stunning turquoise colored canals on actual paved roads which apparently were built to promote salmon farming (almost all NZ salmon are farmed).  




Fish Farm on Canal


The empty roads are almost a welcome biking relief and a breeze compared to the rocky pathways on the previous days, although not as intimate a connection with the environment. Our ride eventually continues off the highway along the southern edge of Lake Ohau which is absolutely beautiful.

Lake Ohau 


Eventually we end up at a B&B in Killin called The Barn. The owners are 4thgeneration kiwis and have 3 cats and 2 sheep as pets. For dinner we cycle 6.5 km to Lake Ohau Lodge. Here we meet up again with the other two Australian/US couples for a meal at a long table that also includes some New Zealand folks. While John and I don’t particularly like large organized bike tours we do enjoy meeting others who bike and learning about their experiences. To our amazement we find out that the couple from Australia, Graham and Helen are ages 81 and 78. They are definitely a model for the benefits of exercise, living life to its fullest and delightful to talk with. We hope to be doing the same thing at their age.  


After dinner biking back to The Barn is somewhat precarious for me as it is dark and my bike front light is not working. I make it but don’t recommend this level of adventure.  Back at the Barn we join the owner and two other women guests for tea and discussions of life in New Zealand and the results of the Academy Awards. I realize that I have not followed the news for 2 weeks. A welcome break. 

The Barn 

Day #4 Thursday Lake Ohau to Omarama (55 km)
Grueling rocking trails

Ride Over the Saddle
Start of Uphill Cycle

This is our most grueling day as it involves a steady climb up out of Ohau to the highpoint of the A20 trail at 900m above sea level. While the trail zigzags and is not terribly steep it is very rocky and difficult to ride. John tries to motivate me by offering licorice breaks! 


licorice break



Rocky Trail 

We meet our four friends again on this trail and I am motivated by their attitude towards the trail. I endure.. only stopping to take in the incredible views because if I do this viewing while biking I seem to lose my balance. It is 11 km to the top and we all celebrate our success.  



John warns me that I might like the uphill ride better than the downhill ride. Yes, downhill on rocks is more difficult and on occasion I walk my bike with the hope I will live to 81! 

Views as we climb up

Along the way we stop for lunch with our friends at the Historic Benmore Station Woolshed



At this point it is 2 pm and I realize we have another 20 km to go. However, the remainder of our bike ride is fast with easy roadways. We reluctantly say goodbye to our friends and feel meeting them has been a gift to our experience. We are picked up and driven to Kurow rather than cycling this stretch because the trail is primarily on highway roads with cars. John says he is more nervous with me on roads than on the rocky pathway.  

Waitaki Dam 
We arrive at a sweet small hotel (8 rooms) called Waitaki Braids in Kurow.  We have an exceptional dinner there in a beautiful dining room. John wants to take a walk around  the town which takes about 5 minutes as it is even smaller than Twizel. Recorded population is 312 people. Apparently the town was originally built as the base for the nearby Waitaki Dam which formed Lake Waitaki in the first of a series of hydroelectric projects.  It was the terminus of a railway which closed in 1983. When driving there Vaughn asks us if we know Richie McCaw, the famous All Black captain of the NZ rugby team who comes from Kurow.  Sadly, as I am sure you know I am not up on my rugby knowledge, or football of any type for that matter.

Waitaki Braids in Kurow

Day #5 Friday Kurow to Duntroon  (28 km)
Does one cycle rain or shine? What level of challenge is important to cycling enjoyment?

On this morning we have a great meal at Waitaki Braids and because rain seems imminent we decide to wait it out, especially as cappuccinos are readily available and we have access to the internet. Moreover, our ride on this day is the shortest of all.  About 11 am the rain subsides and the sun comes out. We ride through a lovely landscape with 90% of the time riding in the Pasquale Vineyards, along the Waitaki River and by cow pastures and rolling hills rather than by or on the highway. This seems to make a big difference to the feeling of peacefulness. I am glad John omitted the highway journey of the day before. 



Cow country now 

We stop at the beautiful T-Rivers winery where Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris is planted and of course we sample the wine.

 





Further along we lunch by the river and later arrive at our quaint batch called Kowhai Beach in the sheep farming town of Duntroon. It has a population of 120 people!  It is known for its fossils of extinct species and 2 species of small penguins. Five kilometers south reportedly are large rock-formations called “Elephant Rocks” used in the first Chronicles of Narnia movie in 2005.  Like Kurow this village was served by a railway but eventually lost its status as a terminus and closed in 1983. The railway station is now a boutique store for fly fishermen. A key has been left for us and our batch is up high on a hill with great views overlooking the rolling landscape and fields of cows. 

Kowhai Beach Batch in Duntroon Population 120

The owner Kit comes by with our dinner and breakfast and gives us instructions on how to cook the chicken. No instructions about dish washing are given here.  John rides down to the local bar and buys a bottle of the T-Rivers Pinot Gris. We are all set for an afternoon of naps, reading, blogging and nighttime views of the stars from our bed. Hopefully we will be rested for the next day which is twice as long a cycle and forecasted to have heavy rains. Stay tuned...